The Evolution of What Grows Together to What Goes Together
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
Local products paired with local wines. If it grows together, it goes together.
This was the theme of last week’s column.
Over millennia, denizens of small communities experimented with food and wine compatibility. The ancient Romans perfected this marriage of Mother Nature with man’s nature, co-existing in a symbiotic relationship, introducing the concept of farm to table. What grows best together goes best together.
Fast forward to the late 20th century when global trading upset the concept of farm to table. Pairings of food and wine were expanded. Now Americans were able to enjoy their Hudson Valley sparkling wine with fresh strawberries from Central America in the deepest winter months and their Hudson Valley Vidal Blanc from Whitecliff Vineyards & Winery with fresh tomato-based salads from Mexico year-round.
In the last 10 years, Americans have experienced a return to basics in many parts of the country. Consumers vigorously seek out local fruits and vegetables as alternatives to those imported from other countries, even from other regions of the United States. Farm to table has gained a strong foothold in the diets and preferences of American consumers.
But in this 10-year period, I’ve also noticed a new take on the concept of pairing local ingredients and wine: If it goes together, it can grow together.
American farmers and wine producers are experimenting with food and grapes rarely produced locally. As a result, Americans are able to expand their quest for local sources of food and wine.
If it goes together, it can grow together.
I present several examples of the changing landscape of Hudson Valley wine production that enables pairings previously not available.
- Several vintners in the Hudson Valley now successfully produce a grape previously grown primarily in France, Cabernet Franc.
An excellent, traditional pairing of Cabernet Franc has been with grilled meat. The combination goes very well together. But growing together?
It had been difficult to find a top pairing within the confines of the Hudson Valley. No longer. The award-winning Cabernet Franc from Fjord Vineyards in Marlboro, a short drive from Westchester County, and the hormone-free, antibiotic-free, grass-fed cattle from Woven Stars Farm in Ghent are a locavore’s dream come true.
If it goes together, it can grow together.
- A white grape, Albarino, previously grown exclusively in a small area of northwestern Spain, is produced to high acclaim at Fjord.
A traditional pairing of this crisp, high minerality wine is gazpacho, produced from the abundance of local, highly desirable tomatoes, many of which are heirloom varieties. Such a pairing was not considered feasible due to the difficult environment in which to produce such a wine. But no longer.
The Fjord Albarino (one of only a handful available in the United States) and the tomatoes from the sustainable, organic farm of Little Seed Gardens in Chatham, create a new flavor profile not previously available to local-centric gourmands.
If it goes together, it can grow together.
- Another discovery for me at the Pleasantville Farmers Market is Tivoli Mushrooms, grown, at times foraged, in the Town of Hudson. Devon Gilroy, a former chef at high-end Manhattan restaurants A Voce and Chanterelle, has pursued his love of mushrooms at his farm in upstate Hudson. His knowledge of the food and medicinal traits of fungi, coupled with the honed skills of growing sustainable varieties, results in a sensory and culinary explosion of flavors.
My new favorite is Maitake, often referred to as hen-of-the-woods. My other favorites sold at his stand include oyster, shiitake, lion’s mane and chestnut. Roasted, sautéed or fricasseed, the earthy aromas and subtle flavor of maitake pair perfectly with Fjord’s Albarino. The brightness and richness of the wine complements the nutty flavor and succulent texture of the mushrooms.
If it goes together, it can grow together.
Everywhere I venture in the Hudson Valley I am impressed with its growing diversity and the passion of those who work the land to create a local, self-sustaining economy for all of us to enjoy.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com.
