Soft Shell Crab Season Has Arrived: Where to Enjoy Them
By Morris Gut
The season for fresh soft shell crab runs from April through September and there are legions who crave this delicacy simply sautéed or deep-fried with some lemon and butter (perhaps some capers). Of course, there are other recipes, too. There’s nothing like a crispy soft shell crab sandwich with the proper condiments. I am one of those fans. Here’s where to seek them out.
La Piccola Casa, Mamaroneck
Walter Ricci, chef/proprietor of La Piccola Casa on Boston Post Road in Mamaroneck, across from blossoming Harbor Island Park, personally shops the Hunts Point Fish Market during the wee hours of the morning, and he was clued in about the arrival of soft shells from one of his valued seafood purveyors. He does a flavorful job with them. They are a very popular specialty here.
A self-taught chef, Ricci has worked many popular kitchens in Westchester including the former Umberto’s in Rye and Giorgio’s in Port Chester where he was a partner for 10 years. He also owned La Piccola Casa at its original location in the old Le Shack spot along Rt. 1 (now a bank), before moving to his present location in the landmark Delancey House across from Orienta Harbor. The Delancey House is where classic American author James Fenimore Cooper lived for a time.
La Piccola Casa has hit its stride with flavor and gusto. Ricci has premiered a new updated value-conscious menu featuring many of his well-known dishes. This kitchen is not super trendy and that is just fine with his patrons, but there is admirable concentration on the finest fresh ingredients he can find. His personal visits to Hunts Point pay off.
Great starters right now include: Clams Oreganata, fresh, tasty and brought to new heights here. A refreshing seafood salad comes with shrimp and calamari marinated with lemon, onions and olive oil, served with roasted peppers. There is a classic Caesar Salad; Arugula and Endive Salad; and Fried Calamari served with dipping sauce.
Hearty pastas prepared with Ricci’s special house-made sauces include: Angel Hair La Piccola Casa in a light Bolognese with cream, tomatoes, prosciutto, beef and peas; Linguini Pescatore, loaded with mussels, clams, fish, shrimp and calamari in tomato sauce; Ravioli Filetto di Pomodori, filled with spinach, veal and cheese, served with a fresh tomato-basil sauce; Farfalla with Meat Ragu; Veal Tortellini in a Bolognese sauce; and a fine version of Angel Hair with red or white clam sauce.
Beautifully prepared main courses include: Snapper Possilipo, sautéed with white wine, onions, garlic and marinara, garnished with shrimp and clams; and a hefty Veal Chop Milanese style, pounded thin, breaded and pan-fried in olive oil, topped with fresh chopped tomatoes and arugula salad. Pollo Scarpariello is served off the bone, chunks of white and dark meat chicken sautéed with garlic, onions, mushrooms and white wine; flavorful versions of Shrimp or Chicken Francese style; and Veal Marsala, scallopini of veal sautéed with Marsala wine and porcini mushrooms. Verbal specials may include: Lobster prepared any style; Veal Scallopini Romana; Chilean Sea Bass; and Roasted Half Chicken served with vegetables. Carnivores will enjoy the big, broiled Veal Chop and Sirloin Steak prepared pizzaiola style. Long time favorites are Chicken or Veal Parmigiana.
Special Hint: The front dining room and bar/lounge face Harbor Island Park and make a refreshing respite from the daily grind.
La Piccola Casa is located at 410 W. Boston Post Road, Mamaroneck. The restaurant is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Main courses: $18.95 to $34.95. Take out. Bar/lounge. Major credit cards. Some seasonal outdoor seating. Free street parking; next door all day. Reservations: 914-777-3766; www.lapiccolacasarestaurant.com.
More Soft Shells, Please!
Kee Oyster House, 128 E. Post Road, White Plains (914-437-8535). The blackboard lists the daily catch with a contemporary attitude and atmosphere. Fish and seafood are pristine. 914-437-8535; www.keeoysterhouse.com.
Holy Crab, 32 Mamaroneck Ave., White Plains (914-948-3888) opened last February serving fresh Cajun-style seafood as you would see in New Orleans. It is a long sprawling space with bustling bar/lounge during happy hours 4 to 8 p.m. Open daily for lunch and dinner; www.holycrabny.com.
Dubrovnik, 721 Main Street, New Rochelle (914-637-3777). This restaurant, the first to specialize in Croatian cuisine in the metro area, excels in fish and seafood so you won’t go wrong here. 914-637-3777; www.dubrovnikny.com.
Artie’s Steak & Seafood, 394 City Island Ave., City Island, Bronx (718-885-9885). The blackboard lists the weekly specialties served with all the trimmings. Jumbo soft shells simply sautéed. Wash it all down with one of the house specialty cocktails or craft beers; www.artiescityisland.com.
Saltaire Oyster Bar and Fish House, 55 Abendroth Ave., Port Chester (914-939-2425) has a Wine & Brine weekday happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. Soft shells are prepared in a variety of styles; www.saltaireoysterbar.com.
Eastchester Fish Gourmet & Market, 837 Post Road, Scarsdale (914-725-3450) will be serving soft shells all season long. They shop the new Fulton Fish Market each week. You can take home from the market a few doors down, too; www.eastchesterfishgourmet.com.
Purdy’s Farmer & the Fish, 100 Titicus Road, North Salem (914-617-8380) is located on a farm where they harvest herbs and produce for the restaurant kitchen. Seasonal soft shells are a specialty. There is a rustic farm market on site; www.farmerandthefish.com.
Valley Restaurant at The Garrison, 2015 US 9, Garrison (1-845-424-3604) is a lovely country club setting for a meal. Softs shells prepared in creative ways; www.thegarrison.com.
Morris Gut is a restaurant marketing consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the food and dining scene in greater Westchester for 30 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net.
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