Not Global Warming, But Rather Drinking Wine Too Warm
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
Wine, as a living, breathing organism, responds and reacts to its environment. Not only in the vineyard (microclimate, proximity to a body of water, sun exposure) but just as importantly, the environment in which it is ultimately consumed.
I have found my interaction with and appreciation of wine is significantly impacted by the moment when a wine passes my pursed lips. Yes, my opinion of a wine is influenced by its aromas and taste, but at times these can pale in comparison to the impact of its temperature.
This may sound trivial, or worse, misdirected. However, a conflicting temperature of a wine will invariably influence my opinion of it. Red wines served too warm will taste flabby and muted; too cold, bereft of aromas and taste. White wines are similarly affected.
Historically, red wine was served throughout Europe at 55 to 60 degrees, which was coincidental with the naturally cooled wine storage cellars of wineries and the ambient temperature of thick, stone-insulated walls of homes. Until the 20th century, this was consistent. The invention of controlled heating and cooling has altered our interaction with red wine.
Today, a red wine ordered in a restaurant may arrive directly from a storage room lacking temperature control, from under a bar, or from a wall display in the main dining area. These wines tend to suffer from warm temperatures that affect our experience of the wine. In my opinion, this is unforgivable.
When presented with this dilemma, I (sometimes) request that the bottle be placed in a tableside ice bucket for a few minutes to bring the wine closer to its ideal 55- to 60-degree range. My fellow diners were initially appalled at this behavior, but have now endorsed, though rarely practice, my proclivity.
I’m more obsessive at home, where I practice my 20/20 rule for red and white wines. When serving a room-temperature red wine, I place it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes before opening and serving it. For white wine, I store the bottle in the refrigerator and remove it 20 minutes before opening and serving, bringing the temperature closer to my white wine temperature goal, generally 45 degrees.
Just as in every aspect of life, there are exceptions to the rules. Here’s one: I enjoy certain red wines chilled beyond the norm of 55 to 60 degrees.
While the rule of thumb holds for the overwhelming majority of red wines, there are a number of lighter-style red wines. These best express their characteristics at temperatures closer to that of white wines, 48 to 52 degrees.
Blasphemy? Heresy? Snobbery? Hear me out.
A red wine that is light-bodied tends to be less complex than its more robust counterparts. It will typically have lower tannins, higher acidity and be a bit fruit-forward. An axiom to follow: cool the wines from cool climates. The skins are thinner and they tend to be more acidic and floral. Chilling them allows their best qualities to shine, not sublimated or masked by relatively warm temperatures.
Which red wines? Here is my shortlist of wines I believe are enhanced by a slight chill: Beaujolais (France), Valpolicella (Veneto region of Italy), Zweiglet (Austria), Frappato (Sicily), Cabernet Franc (Loire Valley), Xinomavro (Greece) and a few Pinot Noir wines.
When it comes to Pinot Noir, it becomes a bit dicey. Lighter styles will benefit from chilling, but more complex styles will become muted and one-dimensional. The allure of many Pinot Noirs is precisely their complexity and subtleness. Seek out higher acid examples from Oregon or several Burgundy subregions.
From the effects of global warming on our lives to the warming effect of red wines on our palates, the impact of the latter is minor compared to the impact of the former. Unless you’re living in a moment of isolated sensory pleasure.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
