Living the Dream in the Wilds of California Wine Country
“The daily fog floated imperceptibly through the individual grapevines, seemingly caressing the grapes with delicate moisture. The Pacific Ocean, less than a mile away, acted as a backdrop to the fog and mountain terrain, its waves majestically crashing into the rocky beaches below.”
This is how I concluded last week’s column. My wife and I had just completed a whirlwind tour of the Fort Ross Vineyard and Winery in the cab of an old, rusted-out utility truck. The vista before us had been miles of unspoiled forests and coastlines. Yet in several acres immediately surrounding us were thriving vineyards planted with Pinot Noir grapes, evidence of man’s (minuscule) intrusion on nature’s realm.
We had come to taste the wines produced by Lester and Linda Schwartz, the pioneering couple who were the first to understand the potential of this Fort Ross-Seaview viticultural region in Northern California. And they were living their dream.
While we were waiting in the tasting room for Lester to come in from a day of toiling in the vineyard, I contemplated the serendipity that brought us to this remote outpost of California wine country and the vision and sweat that brought the couple to the very plot of land upon which we were standing.
Emigrating from South Africa in 1976, Lester and Linda were smitten by the natural beauty of the San Francisco Bay area. They ventured north seeking a parcel of land to live their dream of a rural lifestyle. They purchased 970 acres of land in 1989, and a new dream emerged. They decided to plant a vineyard and produce their own wine. Clearing the land by hand, they experimented with plantings of dozens of grape varietals and grapevine clones for over two years, seeking the varietal that would best express their land
They decided that the Pinot Noir grape was best suited to their terroir. The annual rainfall was substantial, the growing season was long and the sunshine was abundant, all factors under which Pinot Noir flourishes. They cleared additional parcels by hand, ultimately planting 50 acres. Each day they felt a growing sense of accomplishment. In 2001, Lester and Linda released their first wine, followed by additional plantings and bottlings. Each day they were living their dream.
Fast forward to our conversation and wine tasting session in the tasting room. Before us were the bounty of their land: eight different Pinot Noirs, three Chardonnays, a Pinotage (a grape native to South Africa), a sparkling wine and a late harvest Chardonnay dessert wine.
As we tasted through a representative selection of these wines, it was clear that Lester is passionate about winemaking. He spoke with a sense of wonder and excitement as he regaled us with his tales of successes and failures in the vineyard, the national accolades his wines have received and the growing membership in his wine club. (Yes, we are now members and have received – and enjoyed – our first shipment.)
Living one’s dream is the ultimate achievement and self-gratification in life. But what of the fruits of one’s labor? Under the best of circumstances, producing fine wines can be elusive and frustrating.
Sipping the 2013 Stagecoach Road single vineyard Pinot Noir with Lester was enthralling. My wife and I had walked through this vineyard minutes before, and now we were reliving that terroir in a glass of wine. The bouquet of forest aromas was quite evident, wafting through our olfactory senses; the rich black fruit flavors exploded in our mouths. The wine was well balanced between fruit and acidity, the finish silky with a soft tannic mouthfeel.
The 2013 Mother of Pearl Chardonnay was redolent of green apples and stone fruit. The bright minerality and acidity instantly infused our nostrils with the smell and feel of the Pacific Ocean below us.
To live in a natural paradise and to craft wines that express the beauty and power of nature is a dream many have. To live that dream every day, as Lester and Linda Schwartz have for more than two decades, is nirvana.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 20 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member of the Wine Media Guild of wine writers. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
