Is Wine Nature’s Product or Man’s Symbiosis With Nature?
In past columns, I’ve expounded on a time-honored and well-worn axiom in the wine industry: 90 percent of a wine is made in the vineyard.
This espouses that the characteristics of a wine are primarily under the influence of nature, not man. That the soil, natural irrigation, vineyard elevation and microclimate influence the vigor and unique profile of a cluster of grapes more so than the alchemy exacted by a winemaker in the winery. It is the harvested grapes that contain the elements for a great or poor wine, not a winemaker’s talents.
Much has been said of the influence of modern technology in winery operations. Yet there is a growing influence of science in the vineyards as well. Man is diligently exercising his 21st century scientific enlightenment in the traditional realms of nature. Advancements in genetic engineering are influencing many aspects of the natural order of nature.
Is the 90 percent paradigm in jeopardy?
In recent years the characteristics of grapevines have come under the increasing control of scientists and viticulturists. One such intrusion is the genetic cloning of grapevine plants, through which the vigor and quality of vines and grapes can now be influenced and enhanced.
By hybridizing and then grafting select woody branches of one grapevine variety onto the grapevine rootstock of another grapevine variety, man is altering the very core of wine’s natural profile, affecting resistance to disease, vitality and even the flavor of their fruits.
Examples of these grapevine clones abound.
Pinot Noir is perhaps the most fickle of grapes, subject to myriad diseases, unpredictable in various microclimates and sensitive to subtle differences in soil composition. Today, through the science of DNA research and sophisticated trials, viticulturists (vineyard professionals) are able to create specific traits in field trials and laboratories to create grapevine stock that is tailored to specific vineyard sites. A viniculturist (winemaker), working with a viticulturist, is able to select from dozens of clones to find the ideal match for a vineyard planting.
A problem with a particular soil fungus? Clone #27 is highly disease resistant. Seeking a grape that has excellent aging potential? Try Clone #115. Seeking smooth and powerful tannins in a wine? Clone #125 provides the desired result.
Another example comes from Italy. In the 1990s, the local consortium of winemakers in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany was struggling with a reputation for mass-produced, low-quality wines, a carryover from 50 years of winemakers who focused on the bottom line rather the quality of their wines. The newest generation of winemakers were intent on improving their wines, their image and ultimately their profitability.
They embarked on a multi-year, self-funded project to improve the practices of winemaking. The core goal of this research was to find the ideal grapevine clone that could optimize the growing conditions of their vineyards and the quality of their wines.
After testing hundreds of existing and newly-created clones, they narrowed their choices to a handful of clones. Today the quality and popularity of Chianti Classico wines is at an all-time high, as is the financial success of the consortium.
This approach has been successful in western Europe for years and has spread to the United States. One of my favorite examples is Siduri Winery in California. The owner, David Lee, built a reputation for identifying multiple Pinot Noir grapevine clones that provide the optimal expression of a particular plot of land. He contracted with growers to graft these clones each year, thus providing him with a painter’s pallet of choices to mix and match.
The end product is the ultimate expression of his vision to consumers, across 25 offerings and 20 vineyards from Oregon to central California.
Once again, we see man inextricably entwined with nature as he seeks to coexist in a vast ecosystem that becomes more delicate with each passing harvest. So long as man understands his role in fostering this balance, consumers will continue to reap the fruits.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is the co-chairperson of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
