Here We Go Again: Science Dueling With Nature
It is said that more scientific-based breakthroughs have been introduced in the last 50 years in addressing the forces of nature than in all humankind before that.
But what of the more mundane incidents of man’s efforts to vanquish the variability and randomness of nature?
I found such an incident a few months ago. A new company, Endless West, has embarked on a lofty goal: to create wine (and spirits) in a laboratory. No grapes, no fermentation, no aging. And not in a traditional way of mimicking nature. Endless West is seeking a more “natural” method.
This week’s column focuses on the potential of this new product. It is not intended to offer a scientific bent for publication in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences or the Journal of Nucleic Acids. I leave that to much more qualified individuals.
Endless West’s approach is to break down the components of a wine to its molecular level and construct a wine in a laboratory from the bottom up. This process begins by analyzing a sample of “traditional wine” using gas and liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry.
The ingredients utilized after analyzing and replicating the DNA of the wine? Water and neutral alcohol. A recipe is then created by co-founder Josh Decolongon, a sommelier by training. He is responsible for creating the desired molecular profile of aromatics, taste and texture.
The company has recently introduced Gemello Moscato into the market. The particulars? The aroma and flavor purports to be similar to a generic Italian Moscato wine, with a shelf price of $11 to $14 and only 6 percent alcohol.
The label can’t use the word wine for obvious reasons. What is the bottle description of the contents? “Neutral spirits with carbonation, natural flavors, caramel color and beta carotene for color.” Not very appealing to a consumer?
Why would a customer in a wine shop consider a synthetic product that is similarly priced to its natural counterpart?
There is a somewhat persuasive (I won’t use the term compelling) argument for its appeal.
Getting to the essence of wine – its very DNA, its soul, its molecules – makes sense, doesn’t it?
A few Gemello pros and cons for your consideration.
Pro:
- It meets the increasing preference of millennials and other low- or no-alcohol adherents.
- It’s a natural product.
- No seasonal weather concerns.
- No climate change concerns.
- No crop shortages.
- No demand and supply price swings.
- No drain on local water supplies.
- No vineyards to maintain.
- No breakdown in the supply chain in the event of a pandemic. No shortage of healthy field workers, no transport logistics, interruptions, etc.
- It’s consistently the same, every year.
Con:
- It’s consistently the same, every year. Every vintage is an expression of the vineyard site, its terroir. Wine is an expression of its grape varietal. So, if science can replicate the molecular structure of a cluster of grapes, shouldn’t we enjoy the molecular wine as much as non-GMO grapes? Ah, but it is only a small fraction of the biochemistry of wine.
Molecular structure aside, in my opinion, our experience with a bottle of wine goes well beyond the distinct characteristics of a particular grape. A simple example I utilize in my columns is wine produced from the Pinot Noir grape. It may be reasonable to discern that a particular wine is derived from this grape, but it is often difficult to place the wine region from whence it came. Terroir is as influential as the DNA of the grape. - The influence and history of a winery and a winemaker accounts for a significant level of appeal of a particular bottle of wine.
- No compelling price difference from traditional wine.
The maxim I espouse in my columns is 90 percent of a wine is made in the vineyard. Persuading readers that a wine made 100 percent in a laboratory is acceptable would be a difficult proposition. I’m not going there.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is the co-chairperson of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
