Grapevine: When You Should Have a Glass of Chilled Red Wine
Wine, as a living, breathing organism, responds and reacts to its environment. Not only in the vineyard (microclimate, proximity to a body of water, sun exposure) but, just as importantly, in the environment in which it is ultimately consumed.
I have found that my experience, my interaction, with wine is significantly impacted by that moment when a wine passes my pursed lips. Of course, my opinion of a wine is influenced by its aromas and taste, but at times these can be paled in comparison to its temperature.
This may sound trivial, or worse, misdirected. However, a conflicting temperature of a wine will invariably influence our opinion of it. Red wines served too warm, will taste flabby and muted; too cold, they are bereft of their aromas and taste. White wines are similarly affected.
Historically, red wines have been served at room temperature. Until the 20th century, this was consistent. The invention of controlled heating and cooling has altered our interaction with red wine. Historically, red wine was served throughout Europe at 55 to 60 degrees, which was coincidental with the naturally cooled wine storage cellars of wineries and the ambient temperature of thick, stone-insulated walls of homes.
Today, a red wine ordered in a restaurant may arrive directly from a storage room lacking temperature control, under a bar or from a wall display in the main dining area. These wines tend to suffer from warm temperatures that affect our experience of the wine. In my opinion, this is unforgivable. When presented with this dilemma, I (sometimes) request that the bottle be placed in a tableside ice bucket for a few minutes to bring the wine closer to the ideal 55- to 60-degree range. My fellow diners were initially appalled at this behavior, but have now endorsed, but rarely practice, my proclivity.
I’m more obsessive at home, where I practice my 20/20 rule for red and white wines. Before serving a room temperature red wine, I place it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes before opening and serving. For white wines, I store them in the refrigerator in anticipation of serving them. I remove a bottle 20 minutes before opening and serving, bringing the temperature closer to my goal of 45 degrees.
Just as in every aspect of life, there are exceptions to the rules. Here’s one: I enjoy certain red wines chilled beyond the norm of 55 to 60 degrees.
While the rule of thumb holds for the overwhelming majority of red wines, there are a number of lighter style red wines. These best express their characteristics at temperatures closer to that of white wines, 48 to 52 degrees.
Blasphemy? Heretical? Snobbery? Hear me out.
A red wine that is light-bodied tends to be less complex than its more robust counterparts. It will typically have lower tannins, higher acidity and be a bit fruit forward. An axiom to follow: cool the wines from cool climates. The skins are thinner and they tend to be more acidic and floral. Chilling them allows their best qualities to shine, not sublimated or masked by relatively warm temperatures.
Which red wines? Here is my short list of wines I believe are enhanced by chilling: Beaujolais (France), Valpolicella (Veneto region of Italy), Zweiglet (Austria), Frappato (Sicily), Cabernet Franc (Loire Valley), Xinomavro (Greece) and a few Pinot Noir wines.
When it comes to Pinot Noir, it becomes a bit dicey. Lighter styles will benefit from chilling, but more complex styles will become muted and one-dimensional. The allure of many Pinot Noirs is precisely their complexity and subtleness. Seek out higher acid examples from Oregon or several Burgundy subregions.
From the effects of global warming on our lives to the warming effect of red wines on our palates, the impact of one is minor compared to the impact of the other. Unless you’re living in a moment of isolated sensory pleasure.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 20 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
