Grapevine: The Next Chapter of the Icons of Napa Valley
Last week I focused on the viticultural history of California winemaking, from the early days of the immigrant settlers to the modern day gentleman (and lady) one percent investors.
In Napa Valley, the legacy of fine winemaking runs deep. Many of the early European settlers who set their roots in California settled here. The proximity to San Francisco, which was the magnet for travelers from the East Coast, was integral in their quest for a piece of the homeland.
Napa is the reigning star of American wine. It is the Bordeaux of France, the Tuscany of Italy and the Rioja of Spain. It is the region most emblematic of the greatness achieved by America in the 20th century. This week I’ll focus on Napa Valley producers, small and great, from boutique winemakers to industrial complexes, from production levels of tens of thousands cases to tens of millions.
The history of wine in Napa (and the United States) pivots on the Prohibition era (1920-1933).
Pre-Prohibition, beginning in the mid-19th century, was a difficult period for Napa winemakers. It was a sparsely populated region, where settlers were more apt to satiate their palate with cheap whisky than fine wine. Yet, European settlers, drawn to the land, persevered.
A Prussian immigrant, Charles Krug, married into a winemaking family and began planting vines in 1858. His eponymous winery thrives today (thanks to church wine in the lean years), under the ownership of the Peter Mondavi family, who acquired the land and brand name in 1943.
Successful French winemaker Georges de Latour landed in Napa at the close of the 19th century and immediately fell in love with the land. He purchased four acres, naming it “Beaulieu” (beautiful place). When Prohibition threatened to destroy the love of his life, he adapted, selling his wines to churches as altar wines. To this day, Beaulieu wines are well respected; the BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve is a perennial best seller.
Gustave Niebaum, a Finnish sea captain, merchant of sea otter pelts, and a wine connoisseur, travelled to Napa and acquired the Inglenook winey in 1880. He was a connoisseur of Bordeaux wines, producing the first Bordeaux-style wines in California. Inglenook survived Prohibition by selling table grapes, not religious wines. In 1975, Francis Ford Coppola acquired, and renamed, the winery. Today, Niebaum-Coppola’s Rubicon wine is considered one of the finest wines produced in Napa Valley.
And then came Prohibition, while only partially effective (think The Roaring Twenties), devastated the United States wine industry. It wasn’t until the 1970s that it began to reclaim its prominence.
Here’s the legacy of one of the post-Prohibition winemaking families. Others will follow next week.
In 1943, the Mondavi family acquired the Charles Krug Winery. Cesare and Rosa Mondavi and two of their children, Robert and Peter, built a successful wine business. After the deaths of their parents, the brothers continued to build a reputation as one of the premier wineries in the United States. Then, in 1965, a sibling battle cast the fate of the winery into an uncertain future. Robert Mondavi left to begin his eponymous winery, leading to international acclaim.
Peter Mondavi successfully managed Charles Krug until 2015. He died last month at the age of 101.
Robert Mondavi expanded and grew his winery into an international powerhouse. In 1993, his was one of the first to go public. Bearing out the maxim that expertise and success in the vineyards doesn’t necessarily equate to success in the boardroom, his winery overextended itself, and, facing insolvency, was sold to the corporate behemoth, Constellation Brands, in 2004. From humble beginnings, to the peak of his industry, to financial humiliation, Robert died in 2008.
Now, the next generation carries on. Peter’s sons continue to run successfully Charles Krug. Robert’s sons have resurfaced as respected entrepreneurs producing cult wines.
Knowing the backstory of winemakers can influence the opinion of consumers. If you are favorably inclined, seek out the wines of these Napa Valley icons. Their contributions are immeasurable.
Stay tuned for more Napa Valley icons and their progeny.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 20 years he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine
