Grapevine: Determining if a Wine has the Qualities to be Ageable
A few columns back, I expounded on the ageability of wines. In the vineyard of a competent winemaker, there are a number of factors that influence the ability of a wine to age gracefully and ultimately become a pleasurable wine that is highly evolved from its vineyard beginnings. From the grape varietal chosen to be planted and nurtured in the vineyard comes the underlying components that portend the characteristics of a great wine. From the loving techniques of a winemaker in the winery, come the subtle nuances that differentiate a sophisticated, complex wine from a pedestrian, quaffing wine.
Ageability, as I opined in that earlier column, is a function of nature and nurture. It is both the genetic code and the environmental circumstances exerted in the vineyard and the winery that ultimately determine whether a wine should be drunk when released or after years, even decades, of cellaring.
This week, we’ll delve into more objective measurements of a wine’s ageability.
There are four basic components of wine, each present in varying degrees and exerting varying influences: tannins, acidity, taste and alcohol. The combination of each of these determines the final style and life cycle of wine. While these components are present in all wines, it is the winemaker’s manipulation of each that influences the evolution, and longevity, of a particular wine.
– Tannins provide longevity. Somewhat harsh and unrefined at first, over time they soften and add a strong backbone and character to wine. Certain winemakers avoid tannins in order to produce a fresh wine that may be enjoyed in its youth. Others seek out high levels of tannins, which, while initially harsh tasting, will soften over time and add complexity, sophistication and longevity to a wine. The underlying influence of tannins is present in a chemical compound in the skins of red grapes, polyphenols. Oxygen is the enemy of wine, eventually causing oxidation and, by extension, spoiling. It is mainly polyphenols (sometimes referred to as resveratrol by supplement companies) that delay the insidious effects of oxidation. To a lesser extent, aging in oak barrels also produces tannins. The types of grape varietals, and their manipulation during the winemaking process, have the greatest influence on ageability.
– Acidity and taste are inextricably entwined in influencing longevity. The level of acidity and taste (fruit) in a wine will determine its balance. Too little acidity and the wine may be lush but without any distinction. Too much and the end product may be acerbic and off-putting. As a wine matures, its acidity softens and its taste declines, so that the end result may be either a bland wine or a well-balanced, nuanced product with deep-rooted complexity. Each winemaker seeks the ideal balance. At times this is immediately evident; other times it may be years before such balance is achieved.
– The level of alcohol remains constant throughout the life of a wine. Early on, it may create a harsh and unbalanced wine. As a wine matures, the alcohol will tend to mellow the overall character of the wine, making it more approachable and pleasant.
Another, external, factor is the storage condition utilized to age wines. A wine cellar is imperative to maintain consistency of temperature and humidity. Excessive heat (over 58 degrees) or significant spikes in temperature are wine’s enemies. Warm temperatures accelerate the oxidation of wine, shortening its aging potential. Here’s the rub: Enjoying wine at its absolute peak is a sublime experience. Opening and pouring a wine before or after that sometimes fleeting moment can be an absolute nightmare.
Each consumer’s palate differs in its appreciation of the elements that contribute to the ageability of a particular wine. However, the reality of wine consumption in the United States today is that most consumers seek instant gratification rather than prolong their anticipation. I encourage these erstwhile consumers to experiment, either at their wine shop or in their makeshift home cellars. New experiences await.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 20 years he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine
