Grapevine: Deciphering Your Impressions of a Glass of Wine
I conduct a number of private wine tastings each year. I offer my audience a sampling of several wines and pair them with individual foods. I then solicit input on the characteristics of each wine. Since each of our palates differs from the next person’s, I typically receive divergent comments on the aroma, bouquet and taste of a wine.
It makes perfect sense to consumers that wine may have aromas and flavors of agricultural products such as berries, cherries, chocolate, apples, melons, citrus fruits, even grass – but they become confused when their senses detect oak, butter, vanilla, caramel and/or toast. Even more confusing are the more esoteric elements of a wine: the dryness factor, which may impart an overall perceived quality of off-putting harshness in a wine, or conversely, a pleasing mellowness.
These latter characteristics don’t seem natural to their senses. Broader terms which most consumers sense as “mouthfeel” run the gamut from “harsh” or “astringent” all the way to “supple” or “velvety.”
And their consternation is valid. Why is that? What creates these sensory perceptions? The short answer is tannins, compounds 1) naturally found in red grapes and 2) introduced into wine via aging in oak barrels.
To use a George Bush term, the “Influencers” affecting a bottle of wine are: grape varietal, terroir, yeast, aging vessel and the hand of the winemaker. A short description of each influencer:
1) Varietal and terroir: these are the fixed portions of the building blocks of producing a wine. Each varietal has its own distinct characteristics of aroma and taste. The specific environment these grapes are grown in further influences the final product. Pinot Noir grapes grown in Europe will be different from those of the New World, simply because of the influences of the varying climates. Pinot Noir grapes grown in different regions of Europe have unique characteristics due to the differing soil and topography. Similarly, Pinot Noir grapes grown within the same region may have differing characteristics due to the microclimate and the subtle differences in soil from one vineyard to a neighboring vineyard.
Here’s the tannin tie-in to grapes: polyphenols present in grape skins and seeds interact with grape juice and yeast during fermentation. White grapes contain minor levels, red grapes varying levels. Nebbiolo (used in the production of Italian Barolos) and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes have harsher and more concentrated tannins than a Pinot Noir or Merlot, which have softer tannins. These tannic qualities are ever present; the winemaker’s alchemy determines their ultimate influence on a wine.
2) Yeast: typically added to grapes when they are crushed in order to accelerate the fermentation process of converting grape sugars to alcohol. There are numerous varieties of yeast preferred by winemakers. Each affects the resulting body, color and polyphenol level of a wine.
3) Aging: The influence of aging – either in stainless steel or oak barrels, has a significant impact on a winemaker’s final product. And it’s not just the period of aging. The vessel, and the variable attributes of each vessel, arguably may have the greatest influence on the final product. Affected are the levels of tannins and the distinctive aromas detected in wine. More on this in next week’s column.
4) Winemaker’s preferences: Today’s winemaker is as much a technician as an artisan, directing the production of a wine throughout its evolutionary process. The aroma and taste of each wine may be impacted by a number of techniques a winemaker uses at his or her discretion. By manipulating the other Influencers on the finished product, he or she stamps their imprint of style and balance on a bottle of wine. Length of fermentation, type of yeast and aging techniques under the influence of the alchemist, determine the attributes, and appeal, of a particular wine.
The next time you’re asked to opine on the aroma and taste of wine, you’ll be armed with the insights to seek out the unique characteristics of a wine. Perhaps you too will become an influencer on behalf of a new favorite wine.
Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine
