Grapevine: Climate Change in the World’s Vineyards: Fact or Fiction?
The threat of global warming has been growing at an accelerated pace, according to many sources. Since the effects of climate change are slow but steady, many shrug off warnings as anecdotal, simply describing this phenomenon as temporary weather patterns of varying durations.
Each of us has their individual opinion on the reality and effects of global warming. Some subscribe to the survey that argues that 97 percent of the scientific community believes that global warming is real. Others support the petition signed by 31,287 American scientists who reject the premise that current human practices are causing any global warming. In fact, both of these surveys/petitions have been debunked because they were conducted unscientifically, fueling the debate among factious factions on each side of the argument.
This past week brought the focus on climate change and global warmings to the forefront. Armed with comments from Pope Francis and United Nations leaders, the news media has catapulted this subject to the top of social media attention and television news outlet banners.
So who am I am to judge which position on climate change is more authentic? Rather, allow me to focus on the potential effects of global warming on a somewhat micro level that is dear to me: the potential impact on the global wine industry.
Climate is one of the most sensitive components of producing quality wines. Projections have been offered of the impact of rising global temperatures on components of the wine industry such as grape production, the quality of wine and even the displacement of vineyards. Ironically, in Europe the summer heat waves, hailstorms and diseases of the last four vintages have resulted in several highly regarded vintages. Adept winemakers have been able to compensate for these phenomena – so far – but the individual terroirs of vineyards and the unique wines that are produced from these vineyards are at risk.
Herewith my observations on the potential impact of warming temperatures (both short and long term) on global wine production:
- Higher seasonal temperatures produce earlier maturing crops (less “hang-time” equals less robust grapes). Crops subject to an increased number of days of heat will change the characteristics and flavor profile of grapes. The intricate balance of sugar and acid that define a wine are altered, resulting in radically different wines that have been meticulously refined by artisanal winemakers over centuries of working in a symbiotic relation with nature.
- Higher average temperatures over a protracted period would force the displacement of vineyards hundreds of miles beyond their current locations in the Northern and Southern hemispheres. New wine producing areas further north in Europe and North America would be created while existing areas would be unsuitable for current vineyard plantings. Greenland could actually become a green land of grape crops.
- A number of current wine regions in Europe and the United States would virtually disappear, unable to sustain their terroir.
- Displacement of grapes such as Pinot Noir, which is extremely sensitive to temperature, would occur. Could this foretell the end of Burgundy and other favored wine regions as we know it?
- Improved climates would emerge in regions that currently struggle to produce quality wine, e.g. England and northern Germany. Anecdotal evidence: sparkling wines are now being produced for the first time in England – and have won international blind tasting competitions.
What has taken centuries by artisanal winemakers to achieve optimal wines may be threatened by influences beyond their powers. Whether the earth is experiencing a multiyear pattern of weather and climate variability or a long-term, steady decline into permanent global warming, it is the scientific community that must step up to resolve the current debate. Leaving it to the international political community and national leaders will not provide the definitive answer. We owe it to future generations of wine lovers.
Next week, I’ll survey the 2015 grape harvest for anecdotal comments on the impact of this year’s weather patterns on wine quality.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 20 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
