Grapevine: Bountiful Career Opportunities in Bountiful Vineyards
In previous columns I’ve been exploring the landscape of the wine regions of the world, seeking out women winemakers and assessing their impact on the current state of the industry. Thus far, having travelled the virtual vineyards and wineries of the United States, Italy and France, my reports have attempted to identify the changing role of valiant women breaking into industry leadership.
Although lagging significantly behind their male counterparts for centuries in key roles in the industry, women are now succeeding in becoming respected and prestigious voices. The last quarter century has seen women take over the reins of a number of wineries, either through advanced education, changes in generational lineage, spousal death, marriage or pure happenstance.
Nonetheless, women have made their mark in these countries over time and continue to progress, albeit at a slow, halting pace. Certainly the landscape for change is fertile. We have witnessed significant changes in the breadth and depth of the worldwide winemaking industry in the span of one generation: new grape varieties hybridized, new wine regions established, game-changing technological advances and a plethora of new wineries. There are more wines–and wineries–in place today than ever before in the history of the world. And women are carving a niche in this brave new world.
For too long, women had been tethered to their roles as homemakers. Today, women choose professional careers, such as those in the ever-expanding wine industry, and their ranks are increasing at a rapid pace. It is estimated that in several countries nearly one-third of the ranks of chief winemaker, assistant winemaker, vineyard manager and enologist are women.
In the last three columns, I’ve explored the changing role and gaining prominence of women winemakers. This week I wrap up my travels and reporting with an eye on the relatively new areas within the global wine industry: Chile, Argentina, Australia and South Africa.
Here are several examples of successful women winemakers.
Chile: Several generations ago, women wine professionals were very few and far between. Today, they hold nearly one-third of critical winery jobs. Since 1989, Cecilia Torres has been the head winemaker for Vina Santa Rita in Chile. One of her wines, Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon, is one of Chile’s most sought-after wines. A contemporary, Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, is the winemaker at Casa Lapostolle. To the winery’s credit, each year she teams up with two other Chilean women to produce a number of wines in the stratosphere of high-end wines.
Argentina: Susana Balbo is the winemaker for her famous line of Crios wines. Since 1981 she has made wines in seven countries. Laura Catena is the daughter of Nicolas Catena, the owner of the Bodega Catena Zapata winery. In 1999, she began her dual career of winemaker and homemaker, both of which she excels at.
Australia: Mary Penfold took over the reigns of her eponymous winery when her husband died in 1870. Her legacy as one of Australia’s leading producers lives on; “Grange,” one of the most expensive wines sold, is a testament to her vision and tenacity.
South Africa: Although the winemaking tradition dates back nearly six centuries, it is only since the end of apartheid that the wine industry has been accepted worldwide and that women have been accepted within the industry. Recently, Ntsiki Biyela became the country’s first black female winemaker, and has been named Female Winemaker of the Year, besting 28 other entrants. Now that’s progress.
Although much progress is yet to be made to achieve overall equality with men, in many countries women winemakers are increasingly being recognized for their talent and innovation. I encourage you to seek out their wines. They rarely disappoint. However, the question remains: is there a glass ceiling–or an ancient padlocked oak cellar door–preventing further progress?
Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He is co-host of “Glass Up, Glass Down,” a local cable television series on wine and food; he also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
Adam has worked in the local news industry for the past two decades in Westchester County and the broader Hudson Valley. Read more from Adam’s author bio here.
