Grapevine: A High Price to Pay for World Class Wine
Italian wines have a long reputation for high quality and craftsmanship. The best wine regions and winemakers have consistently produced wines that have retained their superior reputation. Notably, there are two regions whose wines are as revered today by wine connoisseurs as they were nearly 200 years ago.
In Piedmont, Barolo wines are often referred to as the king of wines and the wine of kings. These wines, produced from the Nebbiolo grape and aged for an average of five years before release, are full-bodied, concentrated wines with significant acidity and tannins. They generally reach their peak from eight to 30 years after harvest. Needless to say, their reputation and high quality command collector-level prices; the most sought after sell for up to $400.
In Tuscany, the Brunello wine is considered by many to be the equal of Barolos. The vineyards are nestled around the medieval hill town of Montalcino, approximately 25 miles southeast of Siena. All Brunello wines must be produced from 100 percent of the Sangiovese Grosso varietal. Brunellos are admired for their rich berry aromas and dark cherry flavor with hints of chocolate and spice. The aging (typically four years or more) and significant tannins make them especially long-lived. Many reach their prime 10 years after harvest and retain their prime for decades longer. The top producers’ wines sell for up to $400 per bottle.
The traditional methods of winemaking in Montalcino have come under fire in the last decade. Attempting to cater to the changing tastes of global consumers, a number of producers have sought to change the stringent regulations governing the production of Brunello wines. These rebels want to change the aging process and wish to add other grape varieties to make their wines more “modern.” The “traditionalists” have fought these changes vigorously and, to date, have succeeded.
However, in 2008, a group of producers was accused of illegally adding unauthorized grapes to their wines. This caused a major rift within the ranks of Brunello producers and a major international wine scandal. A number of wines were confiscated and government investigations were launched. One of the premier–and most outspoken–winemakers in Montalcino, Gianfranco Soldera, a staunch traditionalist, was believed to have notified authorities of this adulteration. He has been a target of scorn ever since.
Last week I learned of a new chapter in the infighting between the modernists and the traditionalists in Montalcino. This episode was especially unsettling.
In the middle of the night, intruders vandalized the wine cellars of Mr. Soldera’s Case Basse di Soldera winery. No wine was stolen, no physical damage was exacted. Instead, the wine barrels in which the Brunellos had been aging had been emptied onto the winery floor. All of the stored wine was lost, down to the last delicious drop of Brunello “traditionale.” All 16,000 gallons, the equivalent of 84,000 bottles, was gone in just a few turns of barrel spigots.
Six entire vintages of wines were lost overnight, six entire vintages that were being painstaking caressed and cared for, awaiting release in the next one to six years. The last vintage released was 2006; the next vintage hasn’t even been harvested yet. In the past, Soldera wines have commanded one of the highest prices in all of Italy. I estimate the retail value of these lost wines to be over $25 million. Six years of cash flow to run the winery and sustain the vineyards is down the drain.
The culprit(s)? The motivation? Speculation abounds. It may be vindictive producers who were hurt by Mr. Soldera’s alleged whistleblower correspondence to authorities in 2008. It may be an inside job of disgruntled employees. It may be an insurance fraud perpetrated by Mr. Soldera himself. We may never know. What is certain is that one of the greatest wineries in Italy–and the world–has been dealt a devastating blow financially, politically and emotionally.
Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He is co-host of “Glass Up, Glass Down,” a local cable television series on wine and food; he also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
