Grapevine: The Wartime Tribulations of French Champagne Citizenry

In recent columns I’ve been exploring the Champagne region of France. Together we’ve traipsed through the vineyards, the cellars and the streets of the people of this illustrious center of the past and future glory of Champagne. Intricately enmeshed in the oenological fame of the region is its tumultuous political history.

I’ve described the history of Champagne as a favorite site for early Romans to plant grapevines, produce wine and dig out massive underground wine cellars and later as the center of the French empire in the city of Reims, and, in modern times, as the world’s premier region for sparkling wines.

I’ve explained the centuries-long development efforts to perfect the Méthode Champenois, from Dom Perignon to Veuve Cliquot and the meticulous and innovative methods introduced by them that are carried on today.

Interspersed with this history was the evolvement of Champagne wines from mediocre still wines to today’s highly stylized sparkling wines.

This week I’m turning my attention to the trials and travails of the region’s growers and producers as loyal French citizens during one of the most debilitating periods of their modern history.

What destruction and upheaval nature wrought (Phyloxera, hailstorms, drought) over millennia, is overshadowed by what the Germans wrought over a period of four years during World War I.

At the beginning of 1914, the region was still rebounding from a devastating infestation of insects. Decades earlier, entire vineyards had been wiped out. At the outset of World War I, nearly half of vineyard lands were devoid of grapevines. As the local farmers and producers were painstakingly building their businesses again, the Germans crossed the border and began a devastating artillery bombardment.

The French valiantly mobilized and repelled the Germans at one of the two Champagne centers, the city of Epernay, but the larger city, Reims, did not fare as well.

Under siege for nearly 1,000 days, most of the city was leveled, including the ancient cathedral that had served as the center of the French empire as far back as the first century. These war conditions subjected citizens in other war-torn countries and cities to abject poverty and crippled commerce.

But not in Reims. Although most of the city was reduced to a pile of rubble, the citizens were able to carry on more than a modicum of normalcy.

Their indomitable spirit and national pride overcame the physical and psychological effects of tens of thousands of incoming bombs. They refused to allow the Germans to disrupt their lifestyle.

The same underground caves dug out by the Romans nearly 2,000 years before for aging and storing wine were now receiving citizens and their businesses and municipal services providers. While the city burned above ground, the caves built under the city streets now mirrored a substantial portion of the above ground activity. It is estimated that the limestone caves cover an area equal to 80 percent of the land coverage of Reims.

In spite of the constant shelling, daily life persisted.

Families settled into subterranean quarters amongst millions of bottles of cellared Champagne.

Likewise, municipal services set up operation in sections of the vast caves; hospitals, offices, schools conducted their activities at near normal levels. I’ve read of accounts that describe social events taking place and even grand banquets, replete with candelabras, held in the caves of the producer Veuve Cliquot.

The French of Champagne persevered. But they were tested gain, less than a quarter century later. But by World War II the Germans finally realized the merits of Champagne. See my column on the German infatuation with Champagne sparkling wines and the French ruses to conceal and protect their national treasure.

Seriously battered by two world wars, each time they recovered and today enjoy the rewards of their passion, sharing their wine with the rest of the world.

Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.