COLUMNSGrapevine

Grapevine: The New French Paradox

We are part of The Trust Project
Nick Antonaccio
Nick Antonaccio

The concept of unintended consequences has always fascinated me. As modern man has sought to improve lives – medically, economically and technologically – unforeseen outcomes have affected our lives as dramatically as the original intended results.

Examples abound, and seem to be increasing.

1. Banning DDT in the 1970s. Its widespread use in agriculture assuredly saved many lives, but in undeveloped countries the cessation of spraying mosquito-infested wetlands with this carcinogenic product caused an increase in the mosquito population and the unanticipated and unintended deaths of millions infected with fatal malaria.

2. The advance of technology. This still unfolding story may have the greatest unintended consequences in the history of mankind. Just 30 years ago our interaction with each other was primarily visual and auditory. Today, across the globe we’re evolving into beings that communicate via smartphone keyboards and touch screens.

We’re increasingly becoming slaves to smartphone “pings.” They are affecting our psyches and raising stress levels, as in our every waking moment we are addicted to reacting to the latest email, text message and tweet or consumed in downloading the latest apps.

Our minds are becoming like Pablum as we no longer rely on our sensory perception of the world – there’s an app for that. Certainly the increase in productivity over these last 30 years has been significant, but I wonder what consequences lie ahead as we increase our use of and reliance on technology.

3. The new French paradox. A number of French winemakers adhere to organic grape-growing techniques, eschewing the marvels — and shortcomings – of manmade chemical fertilizers, fungicides and pesticides. Organic winemaking has grown significantly over the last decade, with popular support for the health of vineyards, global farmlands, the atmosphere and wine consumers.

The French government has decided that these organic practices are having an unintended consequence on French wines.

The background: The French government has set a goal to reduce the use of pesticides by 50 percent by 2018. For good reason. A recent French laboratory test of 92 bottles of wine found small (non lethal) traces of pesticides in all 92 bottles, a number of which were organically produced. Another unrelated laboratory test of 300 bottles found pesticides in over 90 percent of them.

This startling result for organic wines may be attributable to shifting winds that carry air-borne pesticides from non-organic vineyards to those sustained organically and higher than normal rains that carry atmospheric-trapped pesticides across a wide swath of vineyards in recent years. Also startling was the finding of trace amounts of two illegal chemicals.

The unintended consequence: decreasing the use of pesticides resulted in the growth of the population of a leaf-hopping insect capable of carrying a disease that can destroy entire grape crops.

But that’s not the only consequence.

How has the French government responded to this devastating threat? How is the French government compensating for the unintended consequence caused by the proliferation of the leaf-hopper insect? A simple, yet paradoxical, solution: it is forcing grape growers to spray pesticides to control the leaf-hopper–even the organic farmers. The consequences for noncompliance are substantial: a fine of $40,000 and six months in jail.

At least one organic farmer in Burgundy currently faces prosecution. This organic and biodynamic farmer, Emmanuel Giboulot, has steadfastly avoided the use of chemicals in his vineyards. Evidence of his diligence is self-evident. His vineyard has not suffered from the debilitating disease carried by the leaf-hopper insect, yet he now faces prosecution for his practices.

Yes, unintended consequences occur in a number of unusual ways. The French government has topped them by self-creating new unintended consequences in an attempt to address previous self-created unintended consequences. Another example of a well-intentioned bureaucracy ultimately making matters worse.

Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.

 

 

We'd love for you to support our work by joining as a free, partial access subscriber, or by registering as a full access member. Members get full access to all of our content, and receive a variety of bonus perks like free show tickets. Learn more here.