Grapevine
My mantra throughout our trip to French wine regions was to “to taste barrel samplings deep in hand-carved wine caves, to caress grape-laden grapevines in sun-drenched vineyards, to sample ripe grapes as they were being prepared for the harvest crush, to rub soil and rocks between my fingers to understand the nutrient-poor stress placed on grapevines.”
Mission accomplished.
In my previous columns reporting on our trek, I offered our experiences in Champagne and parts of the LoireValley. This week I conclude our trip with visits to wine cellars in the Burgundy region.
In the other wine regions on our trip, we were tourists visiting castles and chateaux. In Burgundy we were hotel guests in the restored 15th century Chateau de Gilly.
In the other wine regions, we sampled local wines in traditional tasting rooms. In Burgundy, we sampled local wines standing over barrels of maturing wines in carved out subterranean cellars or at simple tables in the basement of a winemaker’s residence.
Burgundy is home to a maze of small vineyards that produce wines described in terms more often associated with human characteristics–and terms of endearment. “Bold with an inner core of sophistication; both complex and elegant at the same time; alluring; ingratiating when first encountered, luxuriant with time, with endearing memories that linger on.” I found myself uttering these phrases as we immersed ourselves in numerous samples of Burgundian nectar.
Here are a few examples of our experiences. For more expansive reviews or for an in-depth guide to select wine regions, contact me directly.
1. Domaine Drouhin-Laroze: The husband-and-wife team of Philip and Christine carry on the tradition of five generations in the Côtes de Nuits region. They produce 13 Pinot Noir wines from 28 owned acres of plots, half of which are situated in the highest ranking Grand Cru vineyards.
We enjoyed aged wines from bottles and samples directly from barrels in the musty, centuries-old cellars. Philip’s philosophy is to produce wines that are drinkable upon release and for five to 10 years thereafter. Look for the Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Vougeot, Bonnes Mares, Le Musigny and Clos de Beze offerings. The 2009 and 2010 vintages are spectacular.
2. Domaine Marchand- Grillot: Our search took us to a quiet residential street in Gevrey-Chambertin. Knocking on the rear door, we were greeted by fifth generation winemaker Jacques Marchand, with wine glass in hand. His cellars are built under his home. We descended the slippery steps into his tasting room–a few chairs around a small table. He plied us with select bottles of the finest offerings from his 46 Pinot Noir vineyards, explaining his wine-making philosophy with hands and arms constantly gesticulating. We offered our opinions of each wine: complex and elegant at the same time alluring and luxuriant.
We continued our conversation for nearly two hours, him not speaking a word of English, us having a limited French vocabulary of a few dozen words. Yet by the time we departed, we felt like intimate friends. Hand gestures, facial expressions and enthusiasm are a universal language.
3. Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine: The winery sits high on a hilltop in the tiny village of Pernand-Vergelesses in the Côtes de Beaune region. Christine Dubreuil, the sixth generation co-owner, produces both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines from the 48-acre estate.
Standing in her cellar around a barrel that doubled as a tasting table, we sampled seven wines from the current release of 20 bottlings, including four Grand Crus. We marveled at the deep rich colors and velvety textures of the wines. These were wines that were drinking exceptionally well. And they created enduring memories that will linger on in our minds over the decades it will take for a number of them to reach full maturity.
As we left Chateau de Gilly at the end of our stay and boarded the fast train back to Paris for our flight home, we all agreed that we must return to Burgundy again–soon. So many great winemakers and wines, so many trips needed to enjoy them.
Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
