Grapevine
This week’s column comprises part two of a multipart series on my recent trip to the French wine regions of Champagne, Loire and Burgundy. Last week I presented my logic for selecting these three among the eight French wine regions, including a need for consensus among myself, my wife and our close couple-friends, the Russells.
It became clear that strolling vineyards and visiting producers in their ancestral environments would be the best way to appreciate the terroir and resulting wines. Our shared goal became my mantra: “to taste barrel samplings deep in hand-carved wine caves, to caress grape-laden grapevines in sun-drenched vineyards, to sample ripe grapes as they were being prepared for the harvest crush, to rub soil and rocks between my fingers to understand the nutrient-poor stress placed on grapevines.”
Although I have had the opportunity over the years to indulge in a broad and deep selection of French wines, my travel companions have not been so fortunate. In fact, there was a bit of trepidation over the perceived “mystique” of French wines. Before delving into our “footwear-on-the-ground” trip, I attempted to demystify French wines.
In short order, I was able to allay a number of their concerns. Perhaps I can do likewise for you. Before our virtual tour through the vineyards of Champagne, Loire and Burgundy, allow me to set out several precepts on the French wine paradox of nomenclature.
Herewith, an extremely abbreviated primer on deciphering French wines:
French wines are strictly controlled by regulatory bodies that dictate, among other factors, 1. permitted grape varietals grown in each region; 2. gradients of ratings of chateau and/or geographic parcels; and 3. bottle label nomenclature. United States regulators do not intervene to the same extent as their French counterparts. The French regulators expect a consumer to be fully conversant on French rules and regulations when selecting wines.
This creates a natural confusion in the minds of American consumers when they peruse wine shelves. In a land of impatience and instant gratification, who among American wine consumers has time to investigate and remember the idiosyncratic ways of others?
A few examples of what exasperates many Americans:
1. Looking for the type of grape inside the bottle? It is not disclosed on traditional French labels. You are expected to know that Vouvray is produced exclusively from Chenin Blanc grapes, Sancerre from Sauvignon Blanc and red Burgundy from Pinot Noir. With this info in hand, the mystique begins to unravel (until you get to regions like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which permits any combination of up to thirteen grapes).
2. In many wine regions, consistent rankings, or classifications, are established by regulators. These are typically based on particular sub regions within a major region. Barolo is considered a DOCG (highest ranking) sub region within the Piedmont region of Italy. France is different. In Bordeaux, local classifications are assigned to individual wineries (estates); in Burgundy they are assigned to individual vineyards, regardless of shared ownership of plots within the vineyards (or the variable quality of vintages). In addition, each region decides what name to assign their unique classifications. In Bordeaux, the highest is First Growth, next is Second Growth, etc. In Burgundy, the top classification is Grand Cru; the second ranking is Premier Cru.
3. Trying to locate where the name of the producer is hidden on a bottle label? In Burgundy, the pecking order for font-size is generally the village, the vineyard(s) within the village and then the producer. Although the producer designation is not typically the most prominent, it is the most important. (See #2 above; a Premier Cru has many producers, not all of equal caliber.)
Still a bit confused? Read the labels on several bottles of French wines on your local wine shop displays and follow the above guidelines. Better yet, follow me on my virtual tour through Champagne, Loire and Burgundy regions over the next few weeks for a ground-level lesson in understanding the French approach to wine production and classification.
Nick Antonaccio is a 35-year Pleasantville resident. For over 15 years he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
