Following the Trail of Women Winemakers Around the Globe
In previous columns I’ve been exploring the landscape of the wine regions of the world, seeking out women winemakers and assessing their impact on the current state of the industry.
Thus far, having traveled the virtual vineyards and wineries of the United States, Italy and France, my reports have attempted to identify the changing role of valiant women breaking into the industry leadership. Although lagging significantly behind their male counterparts for centuries in key roles in the industry, women are now succeeding in becoming respected and prestigious voices.
The last quarter-century has seen women take over the reins of a number of wineries, either through advanced education, changes in generational lineage, spousal death, marriage or pure happenstance.
We have witnessed significant changes in the breadth and depth of the worldwide winemaking industry in the span of one generation: new grape varieties hybridized, new wine regions established, game-changing technological advances and a plethora of new wineries. There are more wines – and wineries – in place today than ever before in the history of the world. And women are carving a niche in this brave new world.
For too long, women had been tethered to their roles as “homemakers.” Today women choose professional careers, such as those in the ever-expanding wine industry, and their ranks are increasing at a rapid pace. In several countries, it is estimated that nearly one-third of the ranks of chief winemaker, assistant winemaker, vineyard manager or enologist are women.
In the last four columns, I’ve explored the changing role and gaining prominence of women winemakers. This week I wrap up my travels and reporting with an eye on the areas that have gained more recent prominence in the global wine industry: Chile, Argentina, Australia and South Africa.
Here are several examples of successful women winemakers.
Chile: Several generations ago, Chilean women wine professionals were very few and far between. Today, they hold nearly one-third of critical winery jobs. Since 1989, Cecilia Torres has been the head winemaker of Viña Santa Rita. One of her wines, Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon, is one of Chile’s most sought-after wines.
A contemporary, Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, is the winemaker at Casa Lapostolle. To her credit, each year she teams up with two other Chilean women to produce a number of high-end wines.
Argentina: Susana Balbo is the winemaker for her famous line of Crios wines. Since 1981, she has made wines in seven countries. In 1999 she founded her eponymous winery in Mendoza. Her legacy is assured by the contributions of her daughter and son at the winery.
Laura Catena is the daughter of Nicolas Catena, the owner of the prestigious Bodega Catena Zapata winery. She began her dual career of winemaker and homemaker in 1999, excelling in both.
Australia: Mary Penfold took over the reins of her eponymous winery in 1870 when her husband died. Her legacy as one of Australia’s leading producers lives on. “Grange,” one of the most highly acclaimed wines in the world – which commands stratospheric prices – is a testament to her vision and tenacity.
South Africa: Although the winemaking tradition dates back nearly six centuries, it is only since the end of apartheid that this country’s wine industry has been accepted worldwide and that women have made inroads within it. Ntsiki Biyela founded her winery, Aslina Wines, in 2017, after 13 years working in the industry. She has the distinction of being the country’s first black female winemaker and was named Female Winemaker of the Year in 2009, besting 28 other entrants. Now that’s progress.
Although much progress is yet to be made to achieve overall equality with men, in many countries women winemakers are increasingly being recognized for their talent and innovation. I encourage you to seek out their wines; they rarely disappoint. However, the question remains: is there a glass ceiling – or an ancient, padlocked, oak cellar door – preventing further progress?
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and Program Director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
