Following the Trail of Ancient Grapes and Winemaking
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
In last week’s column, I explored the history and evolution of grapevines, having discovered a genome study of 2,448 vines across wine-growing regions. The scientists determined that grapevines were first domesticated over 11,000 years ago. At that time a glacial shift segregated the local population of today’s western Asia into two groups. Over the course of history each group pursued diverse paths. The base grapevine species, Vitis Sylvestris, likewise has a bifurcated history.
The western-most population spread north and westward, eventually settling in what today is Western Europe. After many centuries of cross-breeding Vitis Sylvestris into a species termed Vitis Vinifera, today’s Western European wines are considered the best in the world.
The eastern-most population remained in place for millennia, in countries today constituting Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijani. The domesticated grapevines remained little changed from their original genome structure. Today’s multiple wine varieties, still carrying the core genes of the Vitis Sylvestris, remain substantially unadulterated, perpetuating the characteristics of these ancient grapevines. Even many of the production methods persist to this day.
The radical difference in the geographic path and evolution of Vitis Sylvestris throughout the wine-producing world gave me pause for thought. What is the state of the wine industry in Western Europe vs. far Eastern Europe?
The state of the wine industry in Western Europe? Thriving. Quality and consumption have reached new heights across the continent and the world. Thousands of grape varieties flourish; tens of thousands of wineries produce 1.7 billion cases of wine per year; modern technology and techniques have elevated the quality of wine to new heights of refinement.
The state of the wine industry in far Eastern Europe? Emerging. The dominant wine-producing country is Georgia, which holds the enviable reputation as the oldest wine-producing country in the world. Archeological digs have found clay wine containers and grape seeds dating 6,000 years old. Today’s industry has admirably continued ancient viticultural and vinicultural practices, preserving the millennial heritage of local winemaking. Unfortunately, only insignificant levels of production have reached international markets.
A short Georgian wine primer is in order:
There are 525 grape varieties grown, produced by 1,100 wineries, bottling nearly 17 million cases. The eastern region, which produces 70 percent of the wine, is strikingly similar to Western Europe, having a continental climate (and the same latitude as Tuscany). Wine production consists of 75 percent white and 25 percent red wines.
While the wine industry is minor in comparison to Western Europe, Georgia’s wine production techniques stand apart as a symbol of sustained old world expertise.
Ancient techniques persist across the entire nation. The use of wood barrels and stainless steel vessels dominate in Western Europe. Their use in Georgia is disdained in favor of traditional egg-shaped, beeswax-lined clay vessels called qvevri. Similar to amphora, they are distinct in their use. Buried in the ground up to the neck, the qvevri support all stages of winemaking: fermentation, maceration and partial aging. This process, which lasts for six months to two years, creates unique wines, especially the whites. The grape juice, skins, stems and seeds are poured into the qvevri, ultimately producing wines with deep colors, rich aromas and vibrant tannins. The whites take on an orange color. Deemed “orange wines,” they are gathering favor in the United States.
A few weeks ago I was fortunate to be introduced to Georgian winemakers and their wines at a private tasting arranged by Colangelo Partners, a wine consulting firm in New York City. Having completed my research (including several samples over the years), I felt prepared to experience their wines. I interviewed five winemakers, each of whom had a passion for preserving their wine history, culture and winemaking tradition. Their commitment to their heritage was palpable as I sampled several of the most popular grape varieties: Saperavi and Alexandrouli (reds); and Rkatsiteli, Khikhvi and Tsolikouri (whites). Each was distinct from Vitis Vinifera species I’ve experienced: highly aromatic, mouth-coating flavors and tannins, balanced and complex – and yes, the whites were orange in color.
We live in ever-changing times. Excellent finds on wine shop shelves from enterprising winemakers, new winemaking regions, even new grape varieties are proliferating. Experiment and enjoy!
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and Program Director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
