Dabbling in a Style of Wine Growing in Popularity
By Nick Antonaccio
A number of consumers don’t fit the accepted wine drinker’s profile – as if there is such a standard of universality. Their palates, which are comprised of unique nerve endings on the tongue and unique olfactory senses, may prefer lighter-style wines, but haven’t come upon any they care for.
I’ve seen a rising popularity for sweeter wines in the local area and nationwide. Not the concentrated sweet dessert wines like Sauterne, Port or Sherry, but a more generic, much lighter style, very appealing for quaffing or food pairing. Examples include Italy’s Lambrusco (a slightly sweet white Lambrusco was a big hit at a pre-COVID wine tasting I conducted), Rieslings and Moscato.
In fact, there is a general movement among younger consumers to move to sweeter wines, especially Moscato.
Of course, there are influential forces at work here also. Hip-hop artists have embraced Moscato as their drink of choice and that has worked its way into song lyrics, YouTube videos and other social media postings. It has become über-cool to party with the wine of choice of the rich, famous and notorious. This has created a new wine demographic: the I-don’t-particularly-care-for-wine-but-I-love-Moscato consumer.
Moscato sales have continued to grow over the past five to 10 years, although market share is still miniscule. Is it The Next Big Thing in wine? Just ask my friend’s wife or my pony-tailed tech consultant and you’ll get a “glass up” from both.
Let’s delve into Moscato.
The underlying grape is Muscat (Moscato in Italian). The wine may be still or lightly sparkling (called frizzante in Italy, “spritzy” in California). It may be slightly sweet (aperitif style) or full-on sweet (dessert style). It may also be produced as a fortified wine (Beaumes de Venise, from the Rhone Valley in France).
There are a number of hybrids grown and a number of styles produced, including Moscato d’Asti, Moscato Bianco, Muscat Canelli, Moscato Gialli or other hybrids across the winemaking world. The most highly prized are those from Italy (Piedmont’s Moscato d’Asti).
Why Moscato? Very simple: it has three components that satisfy Americans’ palates. It tends to be semisweet, typically fizzy and low in alcohol (as low as 5 percent). And it tastes great when chilled.
The Moscato d’Asti from Piedmont is considered the standard-bearer. It is typically frizzante, slightly sweet, with a refreshing balance of fruit and acidity. It has a creamy texture, aromas of ripe fruit and honey and flavors of apples and citrus.
When I’m inclined to quaff a lighter-style aperitif wine or to pair an off-dry wine with a dessert or a ripe cheese, yet am seeking a slightly sparkling style to refresh and clear my plate, one of my go-to Moscato favorites is from the Asti region, Michele Chiarlo Moscato d’Asti Nivole. Its aromas include notes of peach and apricot with a hint of grapefruit. It has very fine carbonation yet imparts a silky texture on the palate. I particularly enjoy the refreshing finish, which sets up my palate for the next sip or clears my palate for the next taste of a creamy Comte cheese.
Is Moscato for you? There are so many styles of Moscato there is surely one that will please your palate. If you like sparkling wine but find it too dry, try Moscato. If you like the dryness of sparkling wine but not the intense bubbles, try Moscato. If your physiology can’t handle more than one glass of wine without inducing a headache, try the low-alcohol Moscato. If you like dessert wines but find them cloyingly sweet, try Moscato.
If you’re ready for The Next Big Thing in wine, ask your local wine merchant for a Moscato that suits your palate. For under $20 you too can be über-cool.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
