Could This Be Your Next New Favorite Wine?
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
Readers have been taking my advice and are experimenting with the profusion of new and different wines being produced in the ever-expanding world of wine.
I’ve exhorted you to seek out your “new favorite wine” and you’ve become wine explorers, finding Grüner Veltliners from Austria, Sauvignon Blancs from Chile, a plethora of red and whites from Spain and great whites from Italy.
So when recently asked for the next potential “new favorite wine,” I considered numerous options. And then I remembered a wine I was enamored with a number of years ago, but then lost interest in: Beaujolais (Bō-zhol-AY).
First, a primer. Beaujolais is a wine subregion in the famous Burgundy region of France. It has traditionally been a stepchild because it does not fit the definition of any of its brethren Burgundy wines. It is defined by a unique terroir and a unique grape. The Beaujolais terroir is more rugged (more granite than topsoil) and the Beaujolais grape – Gamay – is distinctly different. Herein lies the uniqueness of Beaujolais.
Gamay is a red hybrid of Pinot Noir. Its appeal: it’s easier to grow than a traditional Pinot, enabling growers to extract a fruity aspect not readily apparent in many Pinots; its heritage provides the traditional Pinot characteristics – velvety and finessed; and its fermentation typically results in low tannins. The result is a dark purple, fruit-forward wine with a touch of acidity and soft tannins. Just the way many Americans like their red wines.
The flavor profile ranges from strawberry to plum to cherry to earthy. The wines have a heady, perfumed aroma and an alcohol level typically no higher than 12.5 percent. If you like fruit-forward (not “fruit bombs”), lighter style, elegant red wines with soft tannins and mild acid (Pinots? Merlots?), I recommend Beaujolais.
There are three quality classifications: Beaujolais (the common wines, not generally appealing); Beaujolais Villages (the next step up in the quality ladder, with several high quality-to-price offerings); and the Cru Beaujolais (10 geographic areas of production, producing the highest quality wines at affordable prices).
The Crus are the wines to seek out. My favorites are from the Morgon (cherry flavors), Moulin-a-Vent (earthy, spicy) and Cote de Brouilly (plum flavors) areas. An important note: these wines are far removed from the vapid Beaujolais Nouveau wines that are the subject of a media marketing blitz every Thanksgiving.
For a long time, Beaujolais enjoyed a popularity in the United States as a quality wine at a bargain price. But the wines took a turn for the worse in the late 1990s. In the last three to five years, there has been a resurgence in their quality and even an improvement over the older, highly regarded bottlings.
A new generation of winemakers has taken over the vineyards and production facilities, employing new techniques and practicing organic farming. They are extracting the best qualities from the Gamay grape and have succeeded in producing a very unique wine that is slowly making its way to the States and into wine shops.
All in all, Beaujolais is an exciting alternative for consumers looking for affordable quaffing wines that also pair well with food. Try one with roasts, pork dishes and barbequed meats.
In a survey of local wine merchants, it became evident that the new style of Beaujolais is still not very popular. Although the available choices are high caliber, and the price points are generally in the $25 range (higher for the acclaimed Crus), choices are limited. How to change this? Try one of the wines and, if you enjoy it and want to further explore the world of Beaujolais, ask your merchant to stock a few more. Then spread the word and watch what happens.
As discussed in a previous column, you may rely on highly regarded importers for trustworthy wines. For Beaujolais, the go-to importers (printed on the rear label) are Serge Doré Selections and Louis/Dressner.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
