Clones Are in the Vineyards – and That’s a Good Thing
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
In a recent column, I expounded on a time-honored and well-worn axiom in the wine industry: 90 percent of a wine is made in the vineyard.
This implies that the characteristics of a wine are primarily under the influence of nature, not humankind. That the soil, natural irrigation, vineyard elevation and microclimate influence the vigor and unique profile of a cluster of grapes more so than the alchemy exacted by a winemaker in the winery.
I’ve also delved into the influence of modern technology in winery operations and the growing influence of science in the vineyards. Humankind is diligently exercising 21st century scientific enlightenment in the traditional realms of nature; advancements in genetic engineering are influencing many aspects of the natural order.
Is the 90 percent paradigm in jeopardy once again?
In recent years the characteristics of grapevines have come under the increasing control of scientists and viticulturists. One such intrusion is the genetic cloning of grapevine plants, through which the vigor and quality of vines and grapes can now be influenced and enhanced.
By hybridizing and then grafting select woody branches of one grapevine variety onto the rootstock of another grapevine variety, humankind is altering the very core of wine’s natural profile, affecting resistance to disease, vitality and even the flavor of their fruits.
Examples of these grapevine clones abound.
Pinot Noir is perhaps the most fickle of grapes, subject to myriad diseases, unpredictable in various microclimates and sensitive to subtle differences in soil composition. Today, through DNA research and sophisticated trials in laboratories and in the field, viticulturists are able to create grapevine stock that is tailored to specific vineyard sites. A viniculturist (winemaker), working with a viticulturist (vineyard professional), is able to select from dozens of clones to find the ideal match for their vineyard plantings.
A problem with a particular soil fungus? Clone #27 is highly disease resistant. Seeking a grapevine that can tolerate frost better than others can? Try Clone #19. Seeking more fruit flavors or less acid in grapes? Try Clone #177.
Another example comes from Italy. In the 1990s, the local consortium of winemakers in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany was struggling with a reputation for mass-produced, low-quality wines, a carryover from 50 years of winemakers who focused on the bottom line rather than the quality of their wines.
The newest generation of winemakers was intent on improving their wines, their image and ultimately their profitability. They embarked on a multiyear, self-funded project to improve the practices of winemaking. The core goal of this research was to find the ideal grapevine clone that could optimize the growing conditions of their vineyards and the quality of their wines. After testing hundreds of existing and newly-created clones, they narrowed their choices to a small handful.
Today the quality and popularity of Chianti Classico wines is at an all-time high, as is the financial success of the consortium.
This approach has been successful in western Europe for years and has spread to the United States. One of my favorite examples is Siduri Winery in California. The owners, Adam and Dianna Lee, built a reputation for identifying multiple Pinot Noir grapevine clones that provide the optimal expression of a particular plot of land.
Adam then contracted with growers to graft these clones each year, thus providing him with a painter’s palette of choices to mix and match. According to the website, the grapes of each plot are “vinified separately by vineyard, block, lot, clone, yeast and barrel cooper, and bottled unfiltered and unfined to preserve the distinct character of the vineyard site.” Adam sold his vineyard several years ago, but the new owners and he remain dedicated to the principles that have made Siduri such a distinctive winery.
Once again, humankind is inextricably entwined with nature as we seek to coexist in a vast ecosystem that becomes more delicate with each passing harvest. So long as we understand our role in fostering this balance, consumers will continue to reap the fruits of this symbiotic relationship.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and Program Director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
