Chianti in Tuscany: An Overview and an Ancient Legend
Chianti. Utterance of the word evokes fond memories of a place and time. Of indelibly etched meals enjoyed on a patio overlooking rolling hills of vineyards. Of trattoria house wines, at times sans label, always delightful and always paired perfectly with any local offerings on the menu.
Why does Chianti imbue in us a feeling of comfort, a sense of pastoral bliss and enchanted evenings?
Certainly, the landscape, sunsets and local inhabitants are major factors in influencing our psyche. But somehow, the totality of our senses is influenced primarily by the storied history of this idyllic region. For centuries, this land of limitless bounty has impressed visitors. Internal politics, unseen by these same visitors, have influenced the region and the wines and have forged a culture that, to this day, contributes to the lore and beguilement of Chianti.
What is the essence of Chianti? Herewith a (very) brief backdrop to the intriguing world of 21st century Chianti – a modern wine steeped in ancient history.
Chianti is a regulated region within Tuscany, consisting of 600 producers/growers and 300 wineries. By far its most prestigious member is Chianti Classico (that’s right: Classico is a geographic, not style, designation). There are seven subregions that carry the name Chianti and the designation DOCG (the highest ranking for top Italian wines) on the label, from the area just north of Florence (Rufina) to that surrounding Siena (Colli Senesi).
Since the year 1000, the political and military rights to the 100 square miles of Chianti lands – and its bounty – have been contested in many fierce battles. Many of the stately villas that dot the Chianti terrain were once castles and fortifications for the land-hungry Medicis of Florence and the wealthy families of Siena.
About 70 percent of Chianti land is designated as Chianti Classico, which has been awarded its own, distinct, DOCG status. To oversee and protect the fabled reputation of its wines, winemakers of the Chianti Classico region have banded together to form the “Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico.”
The current crop of producers co-exist in two different camps: those who purposefully carry on the flavor profile of traditional Chianti Classico (lean and slightly acidic) and those who espouse a more modern, fruit-forward wine. Whether traditionalist or modern, Chianti Classico producers have forged an alliance that has catapulted their offerings to worldwide prominence.
To distinguish themselves from the remainder of Chianti, they have chosen as their symbol a black rooster, itself the subject of one of the most famous feuds in Chianti history.
The black rooster (Gallo Nero in Italian) symbol is displayed on the neck of every bottle of Classico as the Consorzio’s symbol of excellence. A red border surrounding the Gallo Nero designates a young Classico; a gold border indicates a Riserva, aged for 24 months before release.
I find the legend of the origin of the black rooster particularly fascinating.
Florence and Siena had fought for centuries over strategic control of the choice Chianti Classico land between their kingdoms. In the 13th century, after many grueling battles, their leaders decided to settle the dispute once and for all, in an arbitrary fashion. Each side would select a rooster, and in the morning, when the cocks crowed in their respective cities, a designated knight on horseback would gallop off from his home base toward the enemy city.
Wherever they met along the nearly 50-mile route, the boundaries for the kingdoms would forever be set. The Sienese chose a beautiful, well-fed white rooster; the Florentines a ragged, starving, cooped-up black rooster. On the designated morning, the ornery black rooster crowed well before dawn, while the complacent white rooster crowed at the first beams of sunlight. The two horsemen met a mere six miles from Siena and to this day the Chianti Classico boundary remains the same.
The Chianti region, famous for its wine and coupled with a storied history and deep culture, is a must-visit during your COVID-19 travel-shortened lifetime.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
