Grapevine

Celebrating the Birth of the Father of Our Country and Our Nation

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GrapevineEvery once in a while, a seemingly obscure news clip inspires me as a theme for a wine column. On the occasion of the 290th anniversary of the birth of George Washington, I’ve decided to reprise a column I penned in 2012 that had a tie-in to the alcoholic beverage of choice of the father of our country and his compatriots.

An ice bucket, commissioned by Gen. Washington, garnered an astronomical price of $782,500 at auction. What was the significance of this objet d’art that it became such an objet du désir?

As I researched it, I realized that this ice bucket embodied a number of compelling aspects of American history.

  1. It was designed by Father George himself to his specific dimensions and construction, but he wanted it to be austere in appearance; no British aristocratic trappings.
  2. It was used extensively at Washington’s home for entertaining.
  3. It was presented by Washington at the end of his term to his long-time friend and collaborator, Alexander Hamilton, whose direct descendants offered it for auction.

I began to consider this wine cooler as it might have pertained to the drinking habits and preferences of our Founding Fathers. After all, they were of Puritanical heritage, and likely did not tipple. Why a need for a wine cooler during such temperate times?

In fact, the Founding Fathers and their contemporaries were not teetotalers. They seemed to have quite a propensity for all things alcoholic. Their annual per capita consumption was five gallons (nearly twice as much as we consume today). What were they drinking? Apparently, anything they could purchase or home-produce to satisfy their voracious appetite for alcohol.

By way of example, I came across a document recounting an outing of Father George, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin and the other Founding Fathers as they were crafting the Constitution. After a particularly stressful day of negotiations and drafting, the 55 delegates gathered at a local tavern to unwind. The tavern’s records, surviving to this day, detailed the bar tab for the evening’s festivities. Here is how I envision the evening may have unfolded (the anecdotal dialogue highlights factual history):    

George: “Barkeep, bring us your finest beer and cider for these fine patriots.”

The night progresses.

George: “Barkeep, although it is my drink of choice, I’m tired of beer. I brew my own, which I consume each evening with dinner. Bring out the good stuff. Don’t you have any hard liquor?”

Barkeep: “I just received a shipment of Madeira wine from Portugal. It’s all the rage in New York. Fortified and sweet, I can’t get enough to satisfy my customers’ changing palate.”

George: “Bring it on, my good man, I know it well. I pour it at home, utilizing my personally designed bucket at the conclusion of each evening’s dinner.”

Later that evening, George to Ben: “See if you can convince Jefferson to fetch a few bottles of that fine French wine he brought back from his government boondoggle to France last year.”

Ben to Thom: “What do you say, my fellow lover of all things French? You’ve been saving those expensive Bordeaux wines for a special occasion. Does forming our own citizens’ government and creating our own laws and civil rights qualify?”

Thom: “I don’t mind, but I’m concerned about you Ben. I know your motto – everything to excess.”

Ben: “Alright then. Tonight, it’s all about moderation. Just as our government is turning over a new leaf, so will I.”

At the end of the night, the bill is presented: 54 bottles of Madeira, 60 bottles of claret wine, eight of whiskey, 22 of porter, eight of hard cider, 12 of beer and seven bowls of alcoholic punch.

Two bottles of wine plus one bottle of various other alcohols – per delegate? Coincidentally, two days later, the Constitution is formally signed.    

My, my. I have a new admiration for Father George. Who knew his talent for raising his arm to lead his loyal troops into battle was equally suited for a toast to the leaders of the Spirit(s) of 1776?

Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.

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