Budapest: One of Europe’s Most Vibrant and Affordable Cities
By Richard Levy
Last year I spent a delightful week in Budapest. My mother Mollie, aka “Zsa Zsa,” was born there.
Hungary has a tumultuous history, ruled for centuries by the Turks, the Habsburgs and then the Nazis. It was liberated by Russian troops at the end of World War II, only to spend 40 years under a brutal communist regime.
Hungary did not become a free republic until 1989. They are a very jovial, fun-loving and welcoming people. In Budapest, wherever you eat, shop, drink or play, you’ll be treated like family.
On your first day, take a Hop On & Off bus tour to orient yourself to the major attractions. Budapest is made of two distinctive neighborhoods – hilly, upscale Buda and Pest, the older, more colorful part of town. Wander around the Old Jewish section of Pest and visit the spectacular Grand Synagogue, built in 1859. This impressive structure has both Romantic and Moorish architectural influences and is the second largest synagogue in the world.
The most moving monument in Budapest, not far from the spectacular Parliament building, is “Shoes on the Danube,” an installation of old shoes placed casually along the banks of the Danube River remembering the thousands of Jews who were lined up at the edge of the Danube, ordered to take off their shoes and shot, their bodies washed away.
For the best views of the city, visit Fisherman’s Bastion in Buda, a terrace studded with medieval turreted towers overlooking the Danube, and St. Matthias Church, with it’s beautiful multicolored roof.
There are numerous bridges in Budapest. You can walk across Liberty Bridge with great views. Visit Central Market, the largest in Europe, filled with hundreds of booths and local kitchens where you can enjoy delicious, affordable local food. Go to The First Strudel House where you can try your hand at strudel making. That’s fun and delicious.
For a taste of Budapest’s totalitarian past, head to the House of Terror Museum in the former secret police headquarters. Visit the neo-classical cathedral St. Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest’s most famous church dedicated to the first king of Hungary.
Restaurants in Budapest are sensational and affordable. Order the national dish, thick goulash soup, pancakes stuffed with spicy chicken and potatoes and famous chicken paprikash. Visit Café Gerbeard, opened in 1884 and the most famous Café in Budapest. Order one of their decadent chocolate desserts. Or have lunch at New York Café House, possibly the most beautiful Belle Epoque café in the world.
My favorite restaurant is the legendary Gundel, opened in 1894. Make reservations for your last night and splurge. Go to Spinoza Restaurant in the old Jewish Quarter. On Friday nights there’s a three-course dinner for $60 per person, which includes live Klezmer music. Many restaurants in Budapest feature roving gypsy bands, creating authentic Hungarian atmosphere.
Take an evening cruise of the harbor where the entire city and shoreline is illuminated. There’s the Gellert Baths in an old art nouveau palace and relax for a couple of hours in a thermal bath.
If you stay at the Aria Hotel next to St. Stephen’s Basilica, it’s a short walk to most places you’ll want to visit. They have a rooftop bar with dazzling views of the city.
Norwegian Air has the best fares, with a layover for a few hours in Oslo or Copenhagen.
Spending a week in Budapest is perfect any time of the year. It’s become one of Europe’s most vibrant and affordable cities. Bring back pouches of fresh paprika for yourself and your friends. My mom used to sprinkle it on everything when I was growing up. I’m now doing the same. Yum!
For more information about Budapest’s best restaurants, hotels, historical sites, shopping and nightlife, go to www.VisitBudapest.com.
Hastings-on-Hudson resident Richard Levy is a former advertising “Mad Man” creative director and now prolific travel writer. He’s also an inventor of innovative new products and is writing and illustrating a new children’s book. You can contact him at RichardLevyTravelWriter@gmail.com.
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