Grapevine

Beer-Wine: Another Alcoholic Beverage to Tantalize Our Palates

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GrapevineThe world is shrinking every day. We’re hurtling down the path toward monolithic world citizenry, each of us dipping into the deep well of global browsers, internet databases and social media, blurring the distinctions among us.

The traditional distinctions of ethnicity and cultural uniqueness have morphed into a mosaic of popular cultures and a new awareness of alternate political and religious ideologies.

It is also evident in lesser venues, the basics of day-to-day lifestyles. From haute couture to the newest “in” jeans, from haute cuisine to the latest street food, our nationalities and our personalities have become blurred. A blending of the old and new, the contraposed becoming the juxtaposed, is the new reality.

I now consider myself somewhat of a global citizen, adapting to and even embracing cross-cultural discoveries. For example, I’ve discovered domestic craft beers that have converted the American “Budweiser” palate to a new sensibility with avant-garde recipes and ingredients from foreign shores. I’ve also discovered Blaufränkisch wine at my neighborhood wine shop, a fine Austrian wine that was little known, or available, until recently.

How does this relate to this week’s column?

Friends of ours, Bernie and Jan, just returned from a Southern road trip bearing a gift. It was a gift-wrapped four-pack of a craft beer made in Wilson, N.C. But it isn’t a traditional beer. Rather it is a beer-wine, which is a burgeoning trend in the craft beer market. American artisanal brewers are producing beers utilizing fermented wine grape juice in the same vats as their malts.

Beer-wine? It’s not as outlandish as it may seem at first blush. I’ve enjoyed beers produced from other fruits, primarily Belgian Lambics, such as Framboise (raspberry), but nary a wine grape.

The gift, from the Casita Brewing Company, is cleverly labeled “Drawing a Blanc – Saison” and is produced from Hallertau Blanc hops and Sauvignon Blanc grapes.  

On the surface, it would seem to be a stretch to consider such a unique blend for my wine column. However, on further consideration, a certain logic to this marriage of hops and grapes surfaces:

  1. The primary ingredients of beer are grains (barley and wheat) and hops. Each crop is a reflection of the soil and climate in which it is grown. Barley from the Northwest is unique and distinct from that grown in upstate New York. Each type of hop has different levels of bitterness that will affect the flavor of the end product. So, too, with different varieties of grapes and the locales where they are harvested.
  2. Both achieve their alcohol content via yeast fermentation of the natural sugars present in the grains and grapes. The end product is influenced by the type of yeast utilized and its life cycle. In beer, certain yeasts produce a richer style (ale), while others a milder one (lager). Ales are similar to complex and robust red wines; lagers are more similar to crisp and mellow white wines.

Anxious to introduce this new product to my palate, which I’ve judiciously trained over the years to form opinions on each of these beverages in various forms and blends, I sat with beer glass and Casita at table.

I was surprised at my palate’s reaction. It isolated the aromatics of the yeasty aromas of the hops and the citrus bouquet of the wine. In my mouth, the refreshing combination of the light spiciness of the beer components and the distinct minerality and citrus fruit overtones combined to create a unique flavor profile – a lighter style coupled with an amazing freshness.

I thoroughly enjoyed it, while visions of quaffing a few at a summer barbeque danced in my head. And the alcohol level is reasonable at 6.5 percent ABV.

My further research discovered other breweries crafting beer-wines (or is it wine-beers?). Look for those made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, even Viognier grapes.

Are you ready to cross the line to beer-wine? If you do, drop me a line with your thoughts. A random submission will be sent a representative sampler package.

Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.

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