Another Component in the Creation of Unique Wines
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
I’ve referred to the term “terroir” multiple times in past columns. The French word roughly translates as a sense of place, invoking the uniqueness of a plot of land that serves as a vineyard for influencing the production of grapes. I often state that, in my opinion, 90 percent of a wine is made in the vineyard.
Each plot of land encompasses the essential elements of nature that nurture grapevines and the production of grapes. These include vineyard soil composition, vineyard altitude, climate and its relative exposure to the sun. The combination of these elements has a clear and distinct impact on the ultimate glass of wine we enjoy with dinner.
A particular type of soil structure will influence the intensity of harvested grapes, their acidity, even their flavor. Higher vineyard elevations will stress vines differently than a valley floor, affecting the intensity, production and the acid-fruit balance of the ultimate wine we consume. Vineyard slopes facing south receive more daylight sun than northern or eastern-facing slopes, thereby creating a more fruit-forward, less dry style of wine. The same grapevine variety, caressed by a warm, mist-laden breeze will differ significantly from that grown on colder, wind-swept plots.
Of course, the remaining 10 percent of a wine’s final profile incorporates a multitude of human-influenced components. Consider these decisions a vineyard owner must weigh: 1) which grapevine clones to purchase that best suit a vineyard’s particular terroir; 2) how to best plant the grapevines to optimize the sun exposure and climate; 3) what farming techniques to follow, considering trellising, pruning, soil conditioning and irrigation; and 4) when to harvest grapes for the best expression of their intrinsic qualitative characteristics.
Having established the basis of my appreciation of wine, I’ve felt confident that I understood the influences of nature and humans on wine as I nurtured and enveloped my senses in each glass of wine that passes through my olfactory and taste senses.
However, another component that I had not fully considered came to light in an article I read published by member-supported GuildSomm. The concept of “cellar terroir” was posited. I was fascinated by the potential effect of conditions naturally present in each winery’s cellar. I naturally assumed wine cellars were a relatively neutral component in the ultimate production of wine. This is not necessarily so.
Consider that each cellar is its own cosmos of the convergence of various elements and activities introduced during its long existence.
Remember the visits and tours of wine cellars you’ve experienced. In the United States, wine cellars tend to be above ground and relatively young. The cellars in western Europe tend to be underground and multigenerational, many hundreds of years old.
What effect might these older, underground cellars impart on a wine’s journey from grape juice to your wine glass?
- Atmosphere. As each successive fermentation and maceration process takes place, certain yeast and bacteria particles linger on. As they swirl in the air or cling to walls and barrels, they may become caught up in the winemaking process, even overpowering the yeast on the just-harvested grapes, and thus affecting a wine’s intensity.
- Temperature and humidity. We’ve all experienced the mustiness of older, underground cellars. The still air, natural mold and organoleptic conditions can affect the range of humidity and thus the development and maturation of wines.
- Barrels. Many western European cellars age and/or store their wine in older barrels. Although typically neutral, these barrels nevertheless harbor numerous micro bacteria and moisture, which in turn have a unique, albeit minor, influence on the ultimate product.
A debate continues concerning above or below-ground cellars. In the United States, the preponderance of cellars is relatively new and built above ground with modern temperature control and sanitation technology. Many feel this makes for a better-controlled, neutral atmosphere. The vagaries noted above of below-ground cellars are thus avoided. Others argue that these cellars are antiseptic and lack the character of centuries-old below ground cellars with their unique atmosphere.
The article I read has affected my perspective on the natural evolution of wine from vineyard to winery cellar to my dinner table. I’ll be focusing on seeking out these attributes.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
