Another Chapter in Man’s Conflict with the Natural Order
In recent columns, I’ve been reporting on man’s seeming interminable conflict with nature for control over the wine industry. Man’s ingenuity and science constantly strive to thwart the balance of nature in the Earth’s ecosystem.
Nature’s response may be immediate or longer term. I’ve reported on several of these – from the grafting and hybridization of vines (to improve vineyard viability) that is met with new diseases that level the playing field, to tampering with plant DNA (to improve plant resistance) that is met with natural calamities that force man back to the laboratories for new solutions.
As I was preparing for this week’s column, another battle between man and nature came to mind. A few years ago, I reported on a near-death experience over a century ago, in which man tampered with the natural order. In this case, man was his own enemy, while nature took her normal course in balancing the natural order.
Herewith I recount this calamity.
In the mid-19th century, in a brief 15-year period, the greatest disaster in the modern history of the wine industry took place in western Europe, wiping out nearly two-thirds of all grapevines.
Picture this: Previously healthy vines in the south of France suddenly develop ominous symptoms – leaves yellow and drop, roots die and grapevines wither. Growers are forced to uproot the dead, diseased plants, burning them in the vineyard fields. The devastation quickly spreads throughout France and then into Italy, Spain and Germany. Centuries-old cultivated and refined grapevines are gone in a wisp of smoke. Producers are bankrupted, unemployment skyrockets, consumers are deprived of their life-sustaining nectar.
What caused this devastation? And what was the ultimate solution?
The cause: A tiny aphid insect, the Phylloxera Vastatrix, began infesting French grapevines in the mid 1850s. Thousands of Phylloxera (phyl-LOX-eh-ra) invaded the roots of plants, weakening grapevines and making them susceptible to fatal diseases. Once satiated, the Phylloxera moved on to the next feast – leaving no physical trail. Farmers were confounded, not able to identify the culprit. In a vain attempt to remove the “poison,” farmers flooded vineyards, spread chemicals, even buried live toads under each grapevine. All to no avail.
A decade later, the cause was identified.
For years, the French had been importing American grapevine rootstock for analysis and possible hybridization. Little did they know these vines carried the Phylloxera across the ocean. They didn’t understand that, whereas American rootstock had developed a resistance to Phylloxera, the native French vines has no such tolerance. As the American rootstock was transported throughout France for experimentation, the Phylloxera was carried along; the devastation spread unchecked.
The solution: In a manner worthy of an episode of CSI Bordeaux, the source of the blight was traced to the Phylloxera carried on the American plants. The French were incensed at the crude Americans for allowing this to happen, and tensions mounted.
Then a solution was proposed. Graft French grapevines onto the American rootstock and replant the vineyards with these hybrid plants. Sacre Bleu. What will this accomplish? The uniqueness of French grape varietals will be preserved and the resistant American rootstock will save the French wine industry.
But now the French were once again incensed. The rogues that caused the problem were now bearers of the solution. Future French wines would be produced in an incestuous relationship with the inferior American rootstock. The French nation would have to acknowledge its gratitude for the survival of its beloved wines to the very culprits that wiped out their vineyards. This was hard to swallow.
But swallow they did. Slowly, very slowly. Nearly a half-century after the invasion of Phylloxera (and one million graftings later), the wine industry in France and across western Europe flourished once again – but with the nagging knowledge of the American presence in the soil and soul of their vineyards. To this day, your glass of French wine may have American roots.
Man challenging nature; the balance of nature prevails again.
Nick Antonaccio is a 40-year Pleasantville resident. For over 20 years he has conducted numerous wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member of the Wine Media Guild of wine writers. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
