An Adventure in Ordering A Glass of White Wine
By Nick Antonaccio
In the United States, white wine is as popular as red wine, and has been so for a number of years. The five best-selling white wines in the United States are, in order, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscato and Riesling.
Chardonnay has been much maligned by the wine media. The acronym “ABC” – Anything But Chardonnay – has become the rallying cry to taste alternative white wines. Just as there is a perception that Chardonnay is a stodgy, out-of-favor wine – while the reality is that it is very popular – so too are there perceptions of the other top-selling wines that don’t correlate with the reality of sales.
In particular, Pinot Grigio, which has also been much maligned, continues to sell strongly – and for good reason. Much of the Pinot Grigio sold in the United States is aimed at consumers who drink wine socially and are satisfied to hold a wine glass filled with anything that is mild, indistinct and easy to order. “I’d like a glass of Pinot Grigio” is not likely to receive a follow-on question from your server; many establishments offer only one.
However, order a glass of Chardonnay, or Sauvignon Blanc, and the choices are numerous. “Would you prefer California or New Zealand?” “A dry or fruity style?”
Generally speaking, Pinot Grigio was not always such a vapid, industrialized wine. In its natural settings in the Friuli region of Italy, it is bright and crisp, with a floral bouquet and hints of melon or honey. It has only been in the last 10 years that these limited quantity Italian Pinot Grigios have found their way to our shores. Wine store shelves and restaurant and bar wine lists still offer the light, indistinct Pinot Grigios, but seek out those from Friuli, made by small producers, and your senses will be aroused.
Speaking personally, I was never an admirer of Pinot Grigio. That changed about three years ago. I was at a wine tasting and was cajoled into trying a Pinot Grigio in disguise. It impressed me with its complexity and excellent balance of fruit and acid. Although offered to me as a Pinot Grigio, the bottle label stated that the wine was Pinot Gris, from Oregon. From that experience, I learned quite a bit about Pinot Grigio lookalikes – and wannabes.
Pinot Gris is Pinot Grigio in disguise. They are the same grapes genetically; in fact, they are both mutations of the Pinot Noir grape. Beyond genetics, the wines are very dissimilar in style. Pinot Gris does best in Oregon and the Alsace region in France. In Oregon, the terroir produces a wine that is complex and full-bodied, with notes of pears, apples, even mangos. All in all, a very distinctive white wine.
For something even more distinct, try a Pinot Gris from Alsace. It is a powerful wine with a long finish and crisp acidity. Mushroom aromas and vanilla, peach, even earthy, flavors dominate the wine, making it enticing.
Those are the lookalikes. The wannabes? Another Pinot Noir mutation is Pinot Blanc (Pinot Bianco in Italy). Grown predominantly in France and Italy, its flavors are similar to a complex Chardonnay, with soft notes of honey, pear and spice.
The above grapes are all Pinot Noir clones. What about the mother grape? White Pinot Noir wine (the white juice without the red skin) is being produced in Oregon, Italy and Germany, although in very limited quantity. This is a very unique wine. Redolent of fragrant, ripe peaches, it is almost creamy on the palate. Its underlying structure is more complex than its sister Pinots. A number of consumers have been drinking white Pinot Noir for years as Blanc de Noirs French Champagnes.
The next time someone says they like Pinot Grigio, find him or her a Pinto Grigio-style alternative glass of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc or white Pinot Noir and see how they react.
Do the same for your favorite Pinot Grigio-averse wine snob. You may get two converts for the price of one bottle of wine.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
