A History of Napa Valley Wine Over Four Eras
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
There are a record number of wineries in the United States today: 10,000-plus. Over 42 percent are in California, accounting for 84 percent of all domestic wine production. Yet, fewer than 2 percent of all wineries in the United States – less than 200 – account for 84 percent of all wine production.
The wineries of Napa Valley, as iconic as they have become, contribute less than 4 percent of the state’s wines.
This was the introduction to my column several weeks ago. It was intended to place a perspective on the American wine industry, while at the same time, to focus on the background of Napa Valley winemakers.
Theirs has been a long, evolving history. And quite a tumultuous history.
This week I focus on this history in four distinct periods.
- Pre-Prohibition marked the infancy and initial rise of Napa Valley. Western European immigrants, many Italians, settled in the Napa Valley and plied their trade in the local markets. Prohibition decimated the industry from 1920 to 1933.
- The post-Prohibition era. It created a number of powerhouses, most closely held. These included Peter and Robert Mondavi, Ernest and Julio Gallo and several other notable families, who flourished and continue to exert their influence in today’s market. Other notables include Jacob and Frederick Beringer, Mike Grgich and Joseph Heitz.
- The early 1970s. This wave of new wineries stood out for their ability to lever off the inroads made by their predecessors. Many were progenies of the 1960s movement of being one with nature, without the trappings of ordered society. While many languished in anonymity, others successfully branded themselves as American icons.
These included the winemakers who participated in the Judgment of Paris in 1976, a tasting competition between upstart Napa wineries and prestigious French wines from the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions. Much to the chagrin of the French and the surprise of wine cognoscenti across the globe, American wines were ranked first in the tasting. (The movie “Bottle Shock” focused on the backdrop of the event.)
These Napa Valley wineries, Chateau Montelena (Chardonnay) and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (Cabernet Sauvignon), remain highly regarded to this day, along with others that competed. This single event was the impetus that catapulted the Napa Valley into becoming the highly regarded wine region it is today.
- The current period in the history of the Napa Valley takes a different route to fame and fortune. In the last 35 years or so, the winemaking industry has been turned upside down through modern technology and modern-day entrepreneurs.
And the profile of winemakers has been evolving. Still dominant are the traditional winemakers who grow their own grapes and produce their own wines. Others have not been as adventurous or as capital-rich, instead opting to buy grapes and process them in their wineries.
Still others have gone the investment-banking route: invest other people’s money. The emergence of these trendsetting winemakers who own no land, no winery and no storage facilities continue to escalate.
Nouveau riche entrepreneurs own many of these virtual wineries. They amassed fortunes during the last 20 years, most notably during the last two technology booms and the financial run-up prior to the Great Recession. “Gentlemen winemakers” is a term I’ve been using to describe these entrepreneurs, who became aware of the finer luxuries of the good life and then invested in those industries that piqued their interests.
Napa Valley is dotted with the likes of these wine lovers-turned-winemakers. A number have grape-stained hands from crafting their own wines, while others have ink-stained hands from writing checks to purchase wineries and hire talented winemakers who are imbued with their employers’ passion for a particular style of wine from a particular grape or plot of land.
Today’s wine market enjoys the fruits of Napa Valley entrepreneurs. Excellent wines are available – at broad price points – to satiate the palate of discerning wine consumers. And these winemakers mirror the American social model. They are a mosaic of multicultural, financially divergent individuals and corporate-backed investors seeking the American dream: following one’s passion, earning the accolades of fellow citizens and achieving the financial rewards of their sweat and dedication.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
