The Highs and Lows of Pairing Wine and Chocolate

This week we’re going to become acquainted with a very provocative pair. When the chemistry is right between them, the sparks fly, the senses are aroused, the experience is intoxicating and the urge to be together again is overwhelming.

However, when the chemistry is a mismatch, there is conflict in the air, the senses are dulled, there is a lasting negative memory of the experience and the two rarely are together again.

The pair I’m referring to is wine and chocolate.

I have been experimenting with the pairing of wine and chocolate for most of my mature adult life. When the pairing is right, when the chocolate enhances the flavor of a wine, when the wine brings out new nuances in the taste of a chocolate, the experience created is unique.

However, a bad pairing is usually a disaster that can leave a taste of chalk on your palate and a dust bowl feel in your mouth. Some people find it difficult to pair these two. The reason chocolate and wine often don’t always get on well is that chocolate’s sweetness can overpower the fruit of the wine and leave your mouth totally confused.

There are the three basic guidelines to follow when matching the pair. Experimentation, as always, is the rule of the day.

First, the wine should be “sweeter” than the chocolate. Second, the wine must be able to cut through the rich coating that chocolate leaves in your mouth. Third, the flavors of the wine and the chocolate should have a high degree of similarity. Basically, the priority is gauging the sweetness or bitterness level of the chocolate and then seeking a wine with similar attributes.

Let’s look at examples of pairings. I’ll present them from the focal point of four classifications of chocolate. The differentiating characteristic of each is the percentage of cacao present.

1. White chocolate is not technically chocolate, since it has no cacao bean base. It is a super-sweet blend of milk, sugar and cacao butter. Ugh! If you must indulge (and I will respect your palate), try a sparkling wine. The bubbles will cut through the cloying sweetness.
2. Milk chocolate typically is produced with approximately 35 percent cacao bean as its base while the rest is primarily condensed milk and sugar. Remember the first rule and choose a sweeter wine than the chocolate. A Tawny Port or a California Central Coast Pinot Noir work well.
3. Dark chocolate contains about 50 to 70 percent cacao, has an earthier taste and is more balanced in flavor. The velvet texture of the chocolate can be intoxicating. This is my favorite chocolate. It is the most complex of the chocolates and pairs well with old favorite Zinfandels and Cabernet Sauvignon. Try one of the 50-plus Rosenblum Zins or a South African Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Aslina. And, of course, a vintage Port.
4. Bittersweet chocolate contains the highest percentage of cacao – up to 85 percent. The bitter, roasted flavor is so intense that it takes a powerful wine to balance the astringency of the chocolate. The tannins in each can make it difficult to complement each other. Try a high-alcohol Zinfandel, or better yet, a big Cotes du Rhone Syrah. And, of course, a vintage Port.

Overall, the quality of the chocolate is key. Several area chocolatiers have excellent offerings. I like Mast Chocolates in Mount Kisco and the Lil’ Chocolate Shoppe in Pleasantville. (Artisanal dark chocolate truffles anyone?)

Overall, my favorite high-end chocolatier is Amedei, located in Lucca, Italy and widely available in the United States. Of course, chocolate bars are entirely acceptable (Valrhona, Scharffen Berger, Vosges). If chocolate cake suits you better, La Tulipe in Mount Kisco is fanatical about using the best ingredients in their offerings. 

Keep these pairings in mind and soon you will be drawn into the world of connoisseurs and provocateurs who seek gratification in each of their culinary experiences. What better pair to spend time with, get to know better and with whom to form a lasting relationship?

If you’re truly adventurous, host a wine and chocolate pairing party in your home. It will be a unique adventure for all.

Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings and wine travel services. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.

Nick Antonaccio