Appreciating the Lesser-Known Wines of South America
Opinion Advocates for ideas and draws conclusions based on the author/producer’s interpretation of facts and data.
Many of us have favorite wines produced from our favorite grapes. It may have been a long road of experimentation, but we’re in a happy place, a go-to wine that requires little forethought but assures us of enjoyment in each encounter.
Perhaps it’s time to step back and look at the wine world with a new perspective. There are many grape varietals that haven’t yet received broad recognition, including dozens from Italy and France in the Old World. However, my interest this week is focused on the New World, specifically South America.
South America’s dominant wine-producing countries are Chile and Argentina. In Chile, the “sweet spot” is in the central, fertile plateau near Santiago. This area benefits from minimal rainfall and the weather blanket of the Andes foothills.
Just 100 miles to the east, albeit separated by one of the tallest mountain ranges in the world, lies the center of Argentina’s wine country, near Mendoza. Thwarted by the arid conditions in the lowlands, Argentinean grape growers have gravitated to the higher elevations in the area (an amazing 3,000 feet on average), benefiting from cooler temperatures and minimal rainfall.
Chilean and Argentinean winemakers, through decades of experimentation, have discovered that certain varietals thrive in these respective conditions and they have begun to exploit nature’s gifts.
In Chile, the rich Spanish heritage of the 16th century conquistadors, and the winemaking missionaries that accompanied them, has been updated in the 21st century by a new influx of young Spaniards, bringing with them the latest winemaking technology and techniques.
- Chilean producers have capitalized on this, being most evident in their Cabernet Sauvignon offerings. But there is another red grape that has flourished.
- Carmenere, transported to Chile from France in the mid-19th century, has evolved into a sophisticated red wine under Chile’s favorable growing conditions for this grape. The wine is deep purple and has aromas of plum. The flavor is intense, with black fruits accompanied by a distinctive spiciness. I like the soft tannins that complement, rather than dominate, the enjoyment of the wine. Pair it with roasted meats, pastas and pizza.
Try offerings from Concha y Toro (a family-owned producer since 1883), Mont Gras and Casa Lapostolle, many in the $12 to $20 range. Carmenere is also skillfully blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; these same producers offer many variations on the Carmenere theme.
In Argentina, after centuries of relative obscurity in the rest of the world, two grape varietals are coming onto the radar screen: Bonarda and Torrontes.
Bonarda, one of the most widely-grown grapes in Argentina and consumed mainly in-country, excellent representations have recently been exported to the United States. Brought to Argentina by Italian immigrants in the 19th century, Bonarda has taken on a unique flavor profile in the Argentinean climate and altitude. A light wine with mild tannins, yet fruit forward with flavors of plum and blueberry, it is somewhat reminiscent of Chianti, but with a softer mouthfeel.
Priced under $20, it is a great bargain. Try it with pastas and roasted meats. I like offerings from Alamos, Altos Las Hormias and Nieto Senetiner.
Torrontés is grown in very few regions in the world. This white grape flourishes under Argentina’s unique growing conditions. It is redolent of peaches and tropical fruits, but ironically has a refreshingly dry finish. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, there is no oak to subjugate the vibrant fruit. It starts out with a hint of sweetness at the front of the tongue, develops body in the mid-palate and has a moderate acidity at the back – ahhh, perfection in a white wine.
Try it with Asian dishes, seafood and cheese-themed recipes. I enjoy the offerings from Alamos, Bodega Norton and Monteflores, many in the $12 to $20 price range.
Now that I’ve explored these varietals, my enthusiasm and sense of adventure is heightened. Where to next? I’ll keep you posted on my virtual travels. I encourage you to do the same.
Nick Antonaccio is a 45-year Pleasantville resident. For over 25 years, he has conducted wine tastings and lectures. Nick is a member and program director of the Wine Media Guild of wine journalists. He also offers personalized wine tastings. Nick’s credo: continuous experimenting results in instinctive behavior. You can reach him at nantonaccio@theexaminernews.com or on Twitter @sharingwine.
