Menu Movers & Shakers

Local Kitchens are Blossoming With Delicious Options This Spring

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The family-style antipasti platter at La Booca.

By Morris Gut

I have had delicious culinary encounters so far this spring. Here are a few good ones to share.

Bustling Brunch at The Thorn

Amiable partners Mario Kocaj and Tonin Syku had spent years working in the restaurant business. They always wanted to share their unique take on the classic flavors of the Mediterranean with the dining public in Westchester, so in 2022 they opened The Thorn Restaurant & Bar in the new Columbus Plaza strip mall in Thornwood.

It is a bright, airy space with high ceilings, big picture windows and separated bar area. I had been dropping in from time to time to take in their weekday happy hours. The place is inviting. Staff is always friendly and ready to please.

They had just started a new Sunday brunch menu and that was our focus on a recent visit. We walked in on a busy Sunday afternoon and the place was already jumping. I had not made a reservation, but rather than wait, the hostess invited us to dine and relax at the sparkling bar.

From the eclectic menu I selected braised short rib lasagna with ricotta and rosemary-scented red tomato sauce served with a green side salad topped by lemon caper dressing. The lasagna had been heated in an individual metal ramekin, and it was delicious.

My partner ordered the arugula and pear salad featuring baby arugula, endives, gorgonzola and fresh-cut pears, all laced with a tasty Champagne vinaigrette. It was crispy and satisfying. I must admit, I have my eyes on their shakshuka or the lamb burger for my next visit.

The main lunch and dinner menus offer a wide range of tempting choices, including a Mediterranean meze platter, barley and wild mushroom risotto, a hearty mixed grill for two with Colorado lamb chops, cevapi sausage, beef kofta, grilled shrimp, ajvar sauce, salsa verde, roasted fingerling potatoes and grilled vegetables.

The Thorn Restaurant & Bar is located at 607 Columbus Ave. in Thornwood. Open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Daily happy hours are from 3 to 6 p.m. Info: 914-747-0626 or visit www.thethornofthornwood.com.

A.N.S. Seafood Opens in Mahopac

There has been some buzz about the recent opening of A.N.S. Seafood Market on Route 6 in Mahopac. The original A.N.S. in Elmsford has been operating as a wholesale distributor of fresh and frozen seafood for more than 45 years. They are also open to the public.

During a recent visit to the Elmsford market the refrigerated display cases and tanks were well-stocked with the fruits of the sea: seasonal soft-shell crabs, lobster, U15 shrimp and fish of every sort, along with sides and condiments.

The Mahopac store, formerly Rick’s Seafood, has a small dining room for indulging in seafood treats on the premises. Takeout is always available. Choices on their kitchen menu include a daily raw bar, chowders and bisques, clams casino, Maryland crab cakes, Maine or Connecticut-style lobster rolls and a fried flounder sandwich. There are even Bavarian pretzels and a Pat LaFrieda burger. There is a kid’s menu as well.

A.N.S. Seafood Market is located at 2 William St. in Elmsford. Info: 914-592-9250. The new Mahopac location is at 545 Route 6. Info: 845-621-2489. Check for hours and prices by visiting www.ansseafood.com.

Chicken Wings at the Candlelight

The ongoing debate about who serves the best chicken wings rages in all corners of the Hudson Valley. But when it comes to taste and popularity, the long-running Candlelight Inn, operating since 1955 out of a vintage free-standing red wood tavern on Central Park Avenue in Scarsdale, always shows up among the finalists.

After a long hiatus, we decided to stop in one wing craving day. It was a Sunday afternoon and the place was packed. The waiting list pinned on the wall was long and we were invited to add our name. First-come, first-served. Fortunately, the tables turned over quickly. We were seated at a booth and ready for the assault.

Our waitress was on the spot handing us the menu. In fact, despite the hubbub in the dining room and bar area, the staff ran the floor quite efficiently.

We decided to share an order of spicy Buffalo wings and a house salad. I can see where their legendary status comes from. The wings are served attached, the flats and drumsticks spread out with all the fixings on the side. Easy to pull apart, dip in the sauce and chomp away.  Plump, meaty and crisp. By the way, the salad was very good, too.

There are many other options on the menu like a variety of burgers, sandwiches, baby back ribs, even a bowl of chicken drumsticks. There’s a good selection of craft beers, too. The Candlelight Inn has tented outdoor seating and a separate bar area. Food is available for takeout.

Candlelight Inn is located at 519 Central Park Ave. in Scarsdale. Free parking. Open seven days. Info: 914-472-9706 or check them out on Facebook.com/CandlelightInn.

Sunday Sauce at La Bocca

Chef and proprietor Tony Spiritoso will be happy to prepare his hearty and delicious Sunday Sauce for your group. Call him in advance.

The Sunday Sauce is cooked the old-fashioned way with beef, pork, meatball, sausage and chicken. You also get a choice of one of six pasta shapes. It’s all served family style with Italian antipasto and salad. It’s $45 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Children six to 12 are $30 each.

Talking about antipasto, a meal here usually begins with platters from Spiritoso’ s signature antipasti bar loaded daily with tempting cured imported meats, cheeses and appetizing house-made salads. He’s brought his vintage bright red slicing machine along wherever he’s been, and it sits ready to roll at the antipasto counter.

Some consider La Bocca the most authentic Italian kitchen in the area. There are seasonal pastas, meats, fish and game. The wine selection is among the best in Westchester. There is a wine room for private events. Open seven days. Happy Bite Hours are Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p.m.

La Bocca is located at 8 Church St. in White Plains. Info: 914-948-3281 or visit www.laboccaristorante.com.

Morris Gut is a restaurant marketing consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the food and dining scene in greater Westchester for more than 30 years. He may be reached at 914-235-6591 or at gutreactions@optonline.net.

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